Hi just had a weekend down at our van and had a problem with the water last night ...
when the tap was turned on it seemed as though the barrel was empty then presure would come after a few seconds then it just stopped altogether,tested pump on seperate supply and its firing up fine.I noticed when i pushed the fitting back in the socket on van water gushed out as if under pressure inside the van any ideas please It has what i believe is an upright damper under the seat on the pressure control knob??
Sounds very much like a seized up non return valve. It's initially let water through the pipes then the non return valve has jammed solid thus blocking the water flow. This in turn will build up pressure behind the water pump housing because the flow has been completely restricted. It was a common problem on the Carver hot water tank which was installed on the earlier Coachman models.
It would be helpful if you said what year model is your Amara is because earlier models had a Carver hot water tank and the later models had a Truma hot water tank fitted which the Carver tank is a long cylinder installed on it's side and a Truma one is grey which is larger in diameter and installed on it's base.
Hi the boiler is the long cylinder type as you say not the grey pot its a 2001 580/4 i just looked a non return valve on e bay are they situated in the inlet block itself ?? and just screw out ? I will order one and try it thankyou for your advice the water has also been pulsing could that be a sign also of it packing in ?
The 2001 model did have the Carver Cascade hot water tank fitted as standard and although the part is relatively cheap it's not an easy job and I say that from first hand experience. The thread on the plastic non return valve is tapered and sealed with a compound on installation to stop any leaks and the hexagon part is an unusual size too which is 20mm. which most spanner kits only come in odd number sizes. You cannot get a socket over the top because there is a restriction due to the long spigot, a ring spanner is too big in diameter and a open ended spanner will just slip off because it's too close to the side of the tank. A 20mm. box spanner with a tommy bar is the only tool I found that could do the job but when you try to undo the non return valve it will just break off due to the hardened plastic which leaves the remaining broken half still inside the aluminium thread. This means that you then have to use a junior hack saw blade (without the handle) and hold it in a cloth and cut through the plastic internal thread on opposite sides till the teeth reach the aluminium thread in the tank itself in order to split it in two. When that has been achieved you go outside to the gas ventilation cowl and remove the water drain down plug at the bottom left hand corner which when you look inside you will see the broken non return valve. You then need a very long screwdriver and push the blade end through the hole till it hit's the non return valve. With a hammer you firmly tap the screwdriver handle and hopefully the two halves of the broken valve shoot out inside the caravan.
Before you insert the new non return valve you need to remove the old sealant with a steel 16mm. thread tap which should be a second tap (not a first or a plug tap) using a tommy bar type tap wrench. If you don't remove the sealant first you will simply chew up the plastic thread on the new non return valve which means that you have to buy a new one. Once the thread has been cleaned out you then need to use a vacuum cleaner to suck up any bits left inside the thread and apply some plumber's waterproof sealing compound to the new non return valve. Screw in by hand first then finally tighten up with the 20mm. box spanner but DO NOT overtighten as the sealant will do the rest. Fix the water pipe back on securely and refit the external drain down plug at the cowl. Connect up the water pump and test for any leaks.
When I did the job myself a few years ago it cost me about 60 quid in total because the thread tap itself cost over £22 which was a non standard size and had to be purchased from an engineering tool supplies warehouse. Having being an engineer for over 45 years, I had the experience and knowledge to tackle the job with positive results which if you don't have the DIY experience required then my advice would be to consider getting the job done at a caravan service shop.
ok i will have a go ive benn a motorcycle mechanic for years and it sounds doable so have a go i do have he tools you mention so half way done?? thankyou so much so ime taking it the offending item it on the boiler end just very awkward like most jobs on them ?? cheers will lt you know if i do it or just take the boiler out and get my engineer friend to do it
Knowing now that you have some experience as a mechanic, it would be an easier job if you could remove the tank completely from the outside cowl as it's the limited space working from inside the caravan under the seat that makes it more of a difficult job to tackle. I have done the job twice on two different previous Coachman caravans that I have owned which the second time I removed the tank and replaced the non return valve that way but it involved having to re-seal the cowl on installation which is a bit messy.
If you have a look on YouTube there may be some videos for guidance on how to remove the Carver Cascade 2 hot water tank which will help.
Quote: Originally posted by Mick S. on 31/3/2023
Have you tried resetting the pressure switch/knob?
Resetting the pressure switch won't make any difference as that just regulates the water flow to the taps. The OP has problems with back pressure at the water pump housing which is related to a major restriction which has to be a defective non return valve not opening and closing. There is a ball bearing inside the non return valve which when the water is drained down it causes surface corrosion on the ball which eventually increases and stops it from sliding back and forth as it should.
Well I don't know what to say, yes the cold water inlet is a sod to get at tango but its not glued in, its simply corrosion gripping it and it's thread is standard 16mm.
Drain bung the other sides got the odd ball 17.5 mm thread
Tip, old fashioned 20/22mm box spanners your best hope of unscrewing it whole, and taping junior hacksaw blade to a screwdriver with 40mm sticking out makes getting it out easiest if plug spanner fails. Use Silicone grease on threads and o ring seal of new one
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Quote: Originally posted by arc systems on 02/4/2023
Sorry Tango I've re-read the full post this morning and had I had the option I'd delete it Only perhaps relevant regarding my comment about sealant
Not to worry and no offence taken. As long as the information provided helps the OP to undertake the repair that's all that matters.
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