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Subject Topic: 12v fridge light flashing - help please Post Reply Post New Topic
PersonJoggerdude
28/4/2024 at 2:06pm
 Location: Ormskirk
 Outfit: Sterling Eccles 2005 View Joggerdude's Profile View Profile   Reply to Joggerdude Reply   Quote Joggerdude Quote  
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The 12v whilst driving, has not been keeping the fridge cool on journeys for some time now.
I therefore decided to check the fridge voltage etc.
Resistance for the heater was ok at 1.4 ohms.
The output from the car was fine at 13.8v, so I tried to check the voltage to the heating element by tapping into the 2 brown wires leading to the element with probes and a multimeter.
After I made these connections, I switched on the fridge to 12v (car running). Immediately the 12v fridge light stated flashing in time to a clicking noise (1 second intervals) from the interior of the van.
This just keeps going until I move from 12v. I disconnected the probes and mulitmeter from the heater supply leads, but the flashing and clicking still occurs when 12v is again selected.
Seems like I have screwed something up by making the multimeter connection to those leads?
Mains and GAS works ok.
Any advice on how to fix would be very welcome.

NOTE. Fridge is Dometic RM7291 circa 2005 which has manual selected power source.


Personmarg6
28/4/2024 at 2:29pm
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the revs from your car need to be above 1500 for the power to get to the fridge, could the clicking sound be from that? esp if your trying to get reading when the car is just on tick over


PersonJoggerdude
28/4/2024 at 2:45pm
 Location: Ormskirk
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Quote: Originally posted by marg6 on 28/4/2024
the revs from your car need to be above 1500 for the power to get to the fridge, could the clicking sound be from that? esp if your trying to get reading when the car is just on tick over

In all the years we've had the van, the fridge has worked on 12v with a steady green light even on idle (800rpm). This problem occurred immediately after I tapped into the two 12v leads to the element and connected the multimeter accross them. I'm assuming I should not have done this and that it blew something?
The question is how to put this right, and where to start?


PersonDaveS1
via mobile 28/4/2024 at 6:59pm
 Location: Hatfield Peverel Essex
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I'm with marg6 here. Suggest you get someone to keep the engine running at normal cruising speed whilst you check the light in the caravan.
The flashing light normally indicates that there is no 230volt supply so if it still doesn't stabilise with the higher revs you may have damaged a cable.


PersonJoggerdude
28/4/2024 at 8:00pm
 Location: Ormskirk
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Quote: Originally posted by DaveS1 on 28/4/2024
I'm with marg6 here. Suggest you get someone to keep the engine running at normal cruising speed whilst you check the light in the caravan.
The flashing light normally indicates that there is no 230volt supply so if it still doesn't stabilise with the higher revs you may have damaged a cable.

I already tried raising the revs but it makes no difference.
Also, when towing, there is never any mains voltage present.


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Personbirdman101
via mobile 29/4/2024 at 8:30am
 Location: Milton Keynes
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What you should of done was check the voltage on the 12 volt connector in the wire going to the fridge, Although you had 13,8 volt at car there will be a voltage drop by the time the wiring runs to the fridge. The thin Orange wire is the one that goes to the control relay and decides if element connects. If the voltage has dropped below 13 v the relay does not operate, I am sorry to say that what you did has probably blown the control module. You will need to remove the fridge to access it and you may be lucky with just the fuse inside it blown. The Green light flashing denotes no voltage to operate the relay to switch the element on.

Post last edited on 29/04/2024 08:38:55

-------------
2023 Swift Archway Woodford, MK3 Kuga ST Line X 190 ps AWD Auto
Now 52 years Caravanning completed.



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