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Subject Topic: Trumatic heating system Post Reply Post New Topic
18/2/2007 at 7:04pm
 Location: Yorkshire
 Outfit: Compass Liberte + Volvo (wot else)
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Hi folks

Just returned from our first trip in our new van (Compass Liberte 2004 - Compass Omega in fancy dress!) can anyone shed some light on the trumatic heating system as it appeared to be very hit and miss with no consistency in the temperature of the heating, as it kept blowing cold air after a while. We used it on electric this time and had set the thermostat to 2000W with a heat setting of 7, 8 or 9. We altered the dial on the actual heater (controls the speed of the fan) and we tried it on both the manual and automatic settings. We consulted the manual which said to set it at 2000W, thermostat 7, number 1 fan on authomatic - It would start off heating up and then would go to cold fan, but not pick back up on heat again.
Look forward to hearing whether anyone else has similar problems as most vans have these types of heating system.
Tomali


18/2/2007 at 7:34pm
 Location: Stoke-on-Trent
 Outfit: abbey vouge 416 freelander
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Hi TomAli

have same trouble myself with my 03 abbey i tend to set my heater to man 2000w fan as low as pos the higher the fan the colder it blow's, then when van is warm set at 1000w or 500w not a patch on my old 97 omega

ps this is my wife's user name mine's mez8951

regard's John 



18/2/2007 at 7:48pm
 Location: N W London
 Outfit: Shogun - Bailey Senator 5 Virginia
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We just found this on our Senator but thought it was us as we need to get used to it's workings.

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Pete & Angie




18/2/2007 at 9:26pm
 Location: None Entered
 Outfit: http: www.arcsystems.biz
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This problem is almost always to do with the position of the temperature sensor, (without a remote sensor being fitted), the 'standard' one is behind the temperature dial in the control switch. Problem here is the back of the switch is often above the heater in the wardrobe where the amount of heat in the wardrobe then effects the sensor more than the the vans general temperature.

The 'remote' sensor plugs into the main control box and automatically disconnects the one in the switch, this sensor can then be sited away from direct heat (at floor level) where it can quickly respond to the vans temperature.

One further possible is the remote is fitted but in the wrong place, favourite places can be directly opposite a blown air outlet, underneath a pelmet/shelf or even above the oven!!



Post last edited on 18/02/2007 21:32:09


18/2/2007 at 9:54pm
 Location: Norf
 Outfit: Elddis
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The ultraheat module is best at full on 9 - for fan heating - make sure the fan is on A and low as it changes the speed with the heat of the element. Blown air is best with gas im afraid as it gets hotter. We use the electric as a background once the gas has heated the van up.

Arc is right about the sensor - i fitted my ultraheat add on myself and cristall had a convenient blank hole fitted for me away from the heater. The add on sensor is about £40 i think so it isnt cheap. But if its too near the heater then its worth it and a VERY easy DIY job to do. Just a small drilled hole and a quick connection.

Sounds to me that is the problem - the element is switching off when it gets warm - but before you do! A way to test it is cover the thermostat up with a spray can lid and tape - then experiment and see if it stays on longer - dont forget to take it off again though!

Im in yorshire too so if you get stuck ill do it for a pint!

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*:)


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18/2/2007 at 10:59pm
 Location: KENT
 Outfit:  BAILEY PEGASUS 534 DIESEL HONDA CRV
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Totally agree with Gary above. Our sensor was placed a few inches above the heater and the heater was in a very very confined cupboard/drawer unit. Had to leave all drawers and cupboard doors open to get it to work to any acceptable level. Made worse by trying to blow the hot air thru van. One pipe was infact disconnected and kept heating the cupboard up. But also, as the blown air pipes are under van, the hot air cools very quickly as it passes thru them and caravan never really got warm. So we also stopped using the blown air sytem. Got a different van now and this design seems a whole lot better. in fact, it gets too hot!!! Still not using the blown air system though.

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18/2/2007 at 11:09pm
 Location: N W London
 Outfit: Shogun - Bailey Senator 5 Virginia
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Will the caravan manual show the position of the temperature sensor  as i will look into this further.

-------------
Pete & Angie




19/2/2007 at 12:26am
 Location: None Entered
 Outfit: http: www.arcsystems.biz
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Quote: Originally posted by RALLYERS on 18/2/2007
Will the caravan manual show the position of the temperature sensor  as i will look into this further.
I doubt it very much but the sensor head is a 1/2in diameter black 'button' shaped thing....you can have a look for that!!


19/2/2007 at 8:35am
 Location: KENT
 Outfit:  BAILEY PEGASUS 534 DIESEL HONDA CRV
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If this is a common problem Gary, why haven't the caravan makers done something about it do you think? We had our Bailey Monarch back to the dealer four times with the heating problems, just kep getting a "nothing wrong" answer. Seems such an obviously fundamental design flaw.



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19/2/2007 at 9:53am
 Location: None Entered
 Outfit: http: www.arcsystems.biz
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Common? it's been going on for years, when I read this thread I thought this question is getting more perennial than the butane/propane one!!!! 

To give Truma their due though, it specifically says in the fitting instructions not to fit the control switch with it's back in the way of direct heat,ie the wardrobe, problem then is van manufactures understandably find this same position the easiest.

Foolproof solution is to fit the remote sensor and attach the sensor itself to the gas sides temperature sensor, in this position the fire works perfectly on both sources of heat, it also does not require any drilling or routing of wires   I was under the impression this position had been universally adopted for retro fitting and told Truma were fitting them there on new fires but I must be wrong?

As for £40 for a sensor!! you can buy the bits for less than £1!!! if your then any good with a soldering iron the rest is a doddle.  Bits required 1 x 10k (negative) thermistor, 1 x 3.5mm mono jack plug, 1 metre length of 'speaker' wire  and some 'shrink wrap' tubing to cover and protect the thermistor solder connections.

There is another problem with some earlier fires whereby the main control board is faulty, I didn't mention that as I again thought the problem had been sorted.



Post last edited on 19/02/2007 10:01:55


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19/2/2007 at 10:12pm
 Location: Norfolk
 Outfit: Abbey 516
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Thanks for this thread folks. I've just discovered what the little black widget at ceiling level above the heater is!!!

What muppets, this must the single most stupidist (sp) place for a remote thermostat!




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