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Subject Topic: Help on pitching a Vango Anteus 600 Post Reply Post New Topic
26/6/2016 at 9:09am
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Please could I have some advice on pitching the Anteus 600 (aka as Avington 600 / Farnham 600)?

I am a bit of camping beginner, so am not very good or experienced with pitching tents.

My first camping experience as an adult has been pitching an Icarus 500. I ended up using the Cross Camping method, which is essentially pegging the 4 corners, and then putting the poles in one at a time. This worked really good, because having a crazy toddler it is hard to get any help, so meant I could easily do the tent on my own. It couldn't have been much easier, once I had done it once.

Anyway I tried to do the same approach with the Anteus 600, and found it much harder. I don't know if it was because it is taller, or whether it is because there are more poles (4 main + 1 for porch) instead of just 3.

I pegged all 4 corners and then put the poles in, and where as the Icarus would look like pretty much great, the Anteus 600 was looking very instable and the although the poles were in, the tent was falling in on each other, and was a poor representation of how it will look at the end. Is this normal, or an indication that something was wrong. Should I have persevered and let the guy ropes put the tent back in to a better shape?

I ended up giving up and following the instructions provided by Vango, but although the instructions were short I didn't really understand them.

I then ended up giving up completely, as we had to go out and I was at the end of my tether.

Disclaimer: I have since found out that the poles were colour coded, and that there were tiny tabs on the sleeves (I didn't see any) to indicate which poles go where. There were 3 poles the same, and I think 2 poles different (the porch pole which I never go to) and the rear pole. This wasn't mentioned in the instructions, and I assumed the poles slightly different colour was anomaly (pretty dim of me in hindsight). This may have caused a lot of the issues I had earlier, but I am still not sure whether I went about it the wrong way).

I am now a week away from holiday, and may not get to practice putting the tent up before holiday. Feeling slightly panicked.

Please can somebody advice what the best way to pitch the tent is. Whether it be the cross camping method or not. If cross camping, when I peg out the corners, which order should I put the poles in? I did front to back with the Icarus, but with a 4 poles tunnel tent should I do it in different order. Doing the front pole on my own seemed hard, because it didn't seem to want to stay up with the porch bit of tent making it a bit trickier to balance.

Any help greatly received. Feeling a bit silly having to post a big long post, when most people just put these things up simply and without any issues :(

Post last edited on 26/06/2016 09:20:48


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26/6/2016 at 9:20am
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Note: the fully Vango instructions are here:-

https://www.vango.co.uk/gb/index.php?controller=attachment&id_attachment=231

They are an improved set of instructions, when compared to the those in my tent. As they are less ambiguous, and also mention the colour coded poles.

Is the basic gist, that you make an arch put the pole in both sides, and then rest the arched poles on the ground in a stack. Then when they are all done, peg the rear of the tent and pull the tent out like an accordion?

What order would be best to attach the poles?

Like this:-

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuHTWtsrMY8

Or when you put the poles, is the tent suppose to end up in the basic shape you want?

Basic instructions are below :-

 Assemble poles and lay them on the ground
 Open out flysheet and position in required direction
 Locate pole sleeves on the flysheet and insert poles. The poles are colour coded to the pole sleeves.
 Locate one end of each pole at one side of the tent into the metal pin system attached to the groundsheet
 Make sure poles locate into correct pin system, all poles follow corresponding flysheet seams to pin system
 Push poles into an arch from opposite ends and locate pole ends into corresponding metal pin
 Tighten all the tensions straps at the base of the poles.
 Securely peg out the rear corners of the tent
 Ensure the tent is in a straight line
 Peg out the remaining poles and pegging points using pin pegs at the base of poles
 Attach all flysheet pole clips onto poles
 Peg out ALL guy lines using pin-pegs ensuring that guy line fabric attachment points are evenly tensioned.


26/6/2016 at 10:11am
 Location: Derby.
 Outfit: Karsten 350+Awnings
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Without bothering to check the (boring!) instructions (Yes, I'm a bloke!!), but taking the time to check out a photo or two of your tent, as I wasn't familiar with it, I would now say to continue with that Cross-Camping method... obviously taking into account the colour coding of the poles!

I would peg out the 4 corners of the SIG, so completely ignore the very front two at the front of the canopy. The SIG, afterall, gives the shape of the tent footprint.

Counting the very front canopy pole as No1 (which I'd leave until last), I would insert the poles in the following order (Preferably with front door left at least half open from last pack up, to allow air in as it gets lifted)...

Pole 2 (level with front wall/door), followed by poles 3 then 4 (either side of the side door), then pole 5 (rear of bedroom). Square all those feet up to get a nice tight SIG, then finally, insert pole 1, at the front of the canopy.

If it was a bigger/heavier (polycotton?) tent, I may suggest changing the order to poles 3-4-2-5-1, as we did with our Kampa Filey 6 classic (with an open fronted porch, so similar in design to yours), with the theory being that those middle poles will help take and spread the weight of the flysheet better. That may be worth consideration? (As would having the side door partly open, as well as the front door).

As with all tents, ensure each pole is central through the sleeve (same amount exposed either side of the sleeve) and that sleeve ends do not trap/catch any pole joints/ferrules. That will ensure a nice even curve to the tent shape.

Both procedures have come direct from the "Cross Camping guide to happy and relaxed camping", and both work very well indeed.
I have used the first method for both the 3 poled Vango Icarus polyester & Kampa Frinton 4 polycotton, and the second method for the bigger, heavier 5 poled Kampa Filey 6 polycotton. All tunnel tents, and as said, the Filey had the open fronted canopy. I see no reason why it wouldn't work on a 4 poled tent, either.
I reiterate though, where you have an open fronted canopy (usually only guided at the bottom by a long, tent width elastic strap at ground level), leave that pole (and pegs) until last. Peg the 4 corners of the main (SIG) tent.

Other procedures are available from inferior sources!!

Good luck!   


Post last edited on 26/06/2016 10:30:39

-------------
2024: 38 nights thus far...
2023: 47 nights
2022: 40 nights
2021: 30 nights
2020: Just 24 nights
2019: A personal best 50 nights
2018: Just the 30 nights
2017: 34 nights
2016: 32 nights
2015: 38 nights
2014: 34 nights
2013: 36 nights
From July 2012: 23 nights


26/6/2016 at 12:12pm
 Location: mansfield
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View eldraco's Profile View Profile   Reply to eldraco Reply   Quote eldraco Quote  
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I also mainly had to erect the Anteus 600 on my own.

This is how i did it..

Spread the tent out in the direction i wanted it and partially pegged the rear (for movement)

Inserted all of the poles and fixed them to the tent.
(attached one side then the other)

I then stretched each pole section taught , from rear of tent forward) and partial pegged the poles.
I positioned each pole section so they were similar position (laying the same way arch back towards the rear)

I went to the front of the tent (with two pegs) and carefully used the guy ropes to pull the tent up and stretch the tent (not fully taught though) and pegged guy ropes.

I then went back to the rear and re-adjusted/stretched each section correctly then did the normal pegging down of the tent and guy ropes.

After about an hour i rechecked guy rope tension

-------------
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26/6/2016 at 2:01pm
 Location: Hertfordshire
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Pretty much any tunnel tent can be pitched using this method.
https://youtu.be/9r39I72Mpdw

-------------
Gary Cross - The masked camping guru.


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26/6/2016 at 8:45pm
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Thanks a lot for all of the advice, it is very helpful.

For the cross camping method for a 4-5 pole tent such as the Vango Anteus 600, would you expect the poles to lean back in to the middle of the tent once you have put it up but not yet fully pegged or put any guy ropes up? Is this normal?

I notice in the video that Gary submitted, that he both recommended to start with a middle pole if there is a side door, and uses a guy rope to ensure that the tent doesn't fall in on itself. I guess this is mostly useful when you're pitching a tent on your own.

Apart from having one pole in the wrong place, perhaps this was all I was missing.

When I put the Icarus up, it just looked like the tent should without even having the guys. However this tent, each pole seemed to be leaning back into the middle, and it didn't look very happy at all. Perhaps all I needed was to not expect it to look to pristine without the guy ropes ensuring the tent had a better tunnel shape?

I am hoping I will get to do a test pitch on Thursday night, otherwise I will probably have to wait until I get to Cornwall and cross my fingers the tent is ok.


26/6/2016 at 9:10pm
 Location: Derby.
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I think... but stand to be corrected... that that is simply down to the initial 4 pegs before inserting any poles. Pull those 4 pegs out too far (SIG too tight/flat) and you'll struggle to stand a pole up, as the flysheet would be very tight. (Depending on the type of pole, you could, in theory, break/snap/crack/split a pole or rip a sleeve/stitching, so don't get forcing things. If it's too tight, bring those pegged corners in a few inches!)
Close the 4 corners up too much, and any pole you stand up could easily fall over, as the flysheet is too loose.

Get those 4 pegs spaced out just right (for erecting, not the finished position) and the flysheet should be loose enough to stand the pole(s) up, but tight enough for it to remain standing without guys. I guess being slightly loose (which is a realistic outcome, in fairness) the poles could stand, but lean, without guys. I wouldn't say that was a problem.
Once you've done it a few times (with the same tent), you'll have a mental picture of just how far apart you need those initial 4 pegs.

Get all poles in and standing (even if leaning slightly), then you can pull the 4 corner pegs outwards to tighten the SIG to the finished position. This can all be done before needing any guys (unless it's blowing a gale, of course!) Pegging the front and rear guys would then square up all poles, before pegging the side guys.

-------------
2024: 38 nights thus far...
2023: 47 nights
2022: 40 nights
2021: 30 nights
2020: Just 24 nights
2019: A personal best 50 nights
2018: Just the 30 nights
2017: 34 nights
2016: 32 nights
2015: 38 nights
2014: 34 nights
2013: 36 nights
From July 2012: 23 nights


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26/6/2016 at 9:16pm
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Thanks very much again for taking the time to reply.

That all makes sense to me, I did pull the SIG quite taut when I did it last, so I will try keep a bit of slack next time.

Do you have any particular time you find is best to tighten the straps at the base of the poles? Is this once you have put all the poles in, but before you re-peg the 4 corners to be straight and taut?


26/6/2016 at 9:53pm
 Location: Derby.
 Outfit: Karsten 350+Awnings
View Mucker1884's Profile View Profile   Reply to Mucker1884 Reply   Quote Mucker1884 Quote  
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I've got to think back now, as I haven't had a ring and pin for 18 months LOL!...

Those adjuster straps are simply to tighten the pin inside the pole end, so they cannot fall, or be pulled, out again.   For this reason, you can "nip up" each strap as and when you have both pins in each pole. Once all up and 4 corners adjusted/tent base is all squared up, I'd suggest one final tighten of the straps, as and when you are there putting a peg through the ring.
I initially had a (bad) habit of over-tightening these straps... no need... just a nice, comfortable pull on them, to take up the slack. I found it easier to simply lift up the pole end/ring & pin (as one) off the ground as I pulled the straps. Just felt more comfortable to me, as the strap wasn't trapped between ring and ground. Hope that makes sense?

I forgot to say, I get the impression that you were pretty much doing it right (cock up with the colour coding notwithstanding, of course! ). So relax! All you have to perfect now is the initial spacing of the 4 corner pegs, which will come naturally after 2 or 3 pitches with the same tent.

Enjoy!

-------------
2024: 38 nights thus far...
2023: 47 nights
2022: 40 nights
2021: 30 nights
2020: Just 24 nights
2019: A personal best 50 nights
2018: Just the 30 nights
2017: 34 nights
2016: 32 nights
2015: 38 nights
2014: 34 nights
2013: 36 nights
From July 2012: 23 nights


29/6/2016 at 5:09pm
 Location: uk
 Outfit: Karsten - sun storm - doesnt matter!
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For my similar length but much heavier ( steel poles ) HiGear Oasis 6,
I use the HankaKampa method which works 100% every time.

As a long tunnel tent ( and wide too ) - there is a lot of air volume inside once it's up and this air needs to get inside the tent otherwise it forms a vacuum and makes the tent harder to get up.

So peg out the the corners and open all the doors and vents.
Grab that large canopy and give it a good shaking to get air into the tent.

Then, peg out the canopy guy lines loosely.
Put the front tent pole in ( not the canopy pole ) and it should look something like this.




Then working towards the back fit the remaining poles.

Using thiis HankaKampa method holds the front of the tent up - allowing air to enter inside easily as the tent goes up with the least amount of resistance - making for an easier pitch than other methods.

The end result being a perfectly pitched large tunnel tent.
I hope this helps you, Happy Camping!



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29/6/2016 at 9:01pm
 Location: Derby.
 Outfit: Karsten 350+Awnings
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Never thought of guying the front of the canopy. I first thought "What a waste of time", but that pic clearly shows (once the first pole goes up) the canopy roof being pulled forward allowing air to get at the door, as opposed to drooping directly in front of the door, blocking off a fair chunk of that airflow, I guess.

Good shout Hankers.

-------------
2024: 38 nights thus far...
2023: 47 nights
2022: 40 nights
2021: 30 nights
2020: Just 24 nights
2019: A personal best 50 nights
2018: Just the 30 nights
2017: 34 nights
2016: 32 nights
2015: 38 nights
2014: 34 nights
2013: 36 nights
From July 2012: 23 nights


Don't forget to leave a review of all tents you've used, for a chance to win fantastic prizes

New! Please upload a photo of your tent to the Tent Showcase!


30/6/2016 at 8:08pm
 Location: None Entered
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Thanks very much for the help everybody!

The weather eased off today, and I managed to do a trial run. It went pretty smoothly combining all your advice.

I found putting the guy lines up for the canopy really seemed to help. It felt like having an extra pair of hands holding the front, and allowed more air in to the tent.

I didn't get time to peg it all out or do the guy lines, but it looked ok.



It is a little hunched between each set of poles, but I assume that is mostly because all the guy lines haven't been put up properly?

Also after pegging the SIG at the very beginning, I didn't adjust it after putting all the poles in. Is this something you would expect to do each time - put all the poles in, and then see if you can stretch unpeg, stretch the front and then peg again?

Thanks again for taking the time out to help a newbie. I am feeling much more optimistic about having some canvas to sleep under now.



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