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25/4/2013 at 9:08pm
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Last weekend I tackled the Cumbria Way, a 72.5 mile hike between Ulverston and Carlisle that passes through some amazing scenery on the way. Its generally best tackled over 5-6 days, but as I didn't have enough leave I elected to tackle it in four instead. As promised here's some photos and a description.
The way starts in Ulverston town centre, either at the metal marker, or the plaque a short distance - take your pick I guess!
Marker at the start of the Cumbria Way by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
Cumbria Way sign by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
The first section of the way passes through a lot of farmland, with one sight in view for some distance - the lighthouse like Hoad Monument which sits on a hill overlooking Ulverston.
The Hoad Monument by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
Being farmland you see a LOT of sheep, and given the time of year plenty of lambs were present.
Cumbrian sheep by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
You soon get a glimpse of the kind of walking that's in store though, for the Cumbria Way passes through the heart of the Lakes and you spend a lot of the first day getting the occasional teaser.
Early sign of the fells by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
An early interesting sight was St John's Church, currently undergoing renovation.
St John's Church by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
As for what the heck these were doing on a farm wall a little further along I have no idea!
Hi Ho... by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
The way soon begins to climb to meet Beacon Tarn, and at this point the grey skies cleared a little and gave a hint that maybe the weather might pick up.
Beacon Tarn by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
The way then gets a bit more boggy with the path a little less obvious, but still possible to follow without too much trouble.
A sign of things to come... by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
It then drops down to Coniston Water, following it for several miles of easy gentle walking almost all the way to Coniston itself.
Coniston Water by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
My destination for the day was Coniston Hall Campsite, which the way passes right through. After a brief stop to pitch the tent, lighten the rucksack and refill my water bottle, I decided to have a bash at Coniston Old Man. On the way up I saw this nice waterfall.
Waterfall on the way up Coniston Old Man by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
However about half way up I reconsidered my decision, I was very tired (I'd already walked about 17 miles), it was late and I'd never climbed that fell before. I probably could have made it up and back down again, but I would have been exhausted going into the second day, which I knew would include one of the harder sections of the whole way (the climb over Stake Pass). I opted to return to the campsite and get plenty of rest for the next day.
I'll continue this thread shortly with photos and experience from day 2.
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26/4/2013 at 9:44pm
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Day two was arguably going to be the hardest day of the route, containing as it did the steepest climb. Unlike my guidebook, which suggested stopping at Great Langdale, I had to pack half of day three into this day, crossing instead into Borrowdale and finishing at Stonetwaite Farm, a total of something like 19 miles.
Weather wise, the day began much better and I left Coniston in good spirits.
Coniston by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
It quickly climbs away from the town, passing on the way this unusual building, an old kennel I believe that has now been converted into a shelter.
Former Kennels near Coniston by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
The first section of this day's walk is gentle climbing, often passing through farmland or woodland. On the way I saw this "money tree" where people have hammered coins into a felled tree.
A money tree by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
Next comes Tarn Hows, a well known beauty spot, but unfortunately the sun was blocking a better view than this one, which was unusual.
Tarn Hows by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
Soon after this the way passes through Elterwater, a small place but it boasts a very busy pub!
A pub in Elterwater by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
And a rather nice lake.
Elterwater with fells in the background by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
After this it was nice to be returning to a part of the Lakes which I had some experience of walking in - Langdale and Mickleden. In addition to being a popular hiking area, its also popular with climbers.
Climbers in Great Langdale area by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
And when the weather is good, the views are just stunning.
In great Langdale by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
Pike O' Stickle by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
As I said earlier, today's normal destination is the Old Dungeon Ghyll, where I stopped for some lunch.
The Old Dungeon Ghyll by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
I reached there about 2pm, more than enough time to complete the remainder of the walk to Stonethwaite. The way takes you along Mickleden
Looking along Mickelden by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
Winding up at the point where the path divides - left for Esk Hause and right towards Stake Pass, which was my route. You can just see the Stake Gill on the right, the path zig zagged sharply up to the top of that.
Where Mickleden ends by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
With one last look back down towards the ODG, and a deep breath, I set off up the path
View back towards the ODG by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
And after numerous stops to catch my breath I finally reached the top of the Gill to be rewarded with this view.
Looking back along Mickleden from the Langdale Combe area by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
At this point the path levels out, crossing Langdale Combe and passing a small tarn before starting the descent into Langstrath
View down into Langstrath from Stake Pass by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
Passing dead trees...
Dead tree near the way by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
And continuing down the valley
View along Langstrath - note the wild campers on the left by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
(not sure if you'll be able to see the wild campers, but they're just above the river on the left)
There was just time for a quick view back the way I came...
Looking back towards Stake pass by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
Before turning at Bleak How and heading across the river to Stonethwaite Farm and its campsite, my destination for the night
Bleak How by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
A tiring day, mainly due to the climb between Mickleden and Langstrath, but the next day was going to be an even harder test, involving less climbing, but an even greater distance.
Post last edited on 26/04/2013 21:56:51
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27/4/2013 at 9:58pm
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Day three and the weather began badly and only got worse. I managed to get the tent down before it got too bad, but the omens were not looking good. In fact they were reminding me of a sign I passed in Stonethwaite...
A very apt sign in Stonethwaite by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
The way soon arrives at Rosthwaite, with its delightful stepping stones. I actually slipped into the river here, but kept my balance and was able to continue without trouble (thank you seal skinz socks!)
Stepping stones by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
Before following the River Derwent through woods and past quarries towards Keswick.
Following the Derwent towards Keswick by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
Also passed on the way was Castle Crag, looking very miserable on such a dreadful day
Castle Crag by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
You soon find yourself at Derwent Water, where the views are normally quite nice, but not on this day!
Derwent Water by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
Even on the approach to the town it didn't get much better.
Approaching Keswick by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
After Keswick the way climbs towards the Skiddaw area, although it swings around to the east and crosses the Whit Beck
Whit Beck by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
Just after this but before the valley in the next photo a rescue helicopter flew right overhead. Unfortunately I'd seen such miserable weather by then that I wasn't prepared and couldn't get a photo because I'd put my camera away!
The way then turns up the valley below the Lonscale Crags, heading towards Skiddaw Youth Hostel.
Valley between Lonscale Fell (left) and Blease Fell by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
At the hostel you have a choice of routes, the eastern route is shorter but goes over higher ground, whilst the western route is longer but generally easier and after an initial climb down mostly farmland. The guidebook suggested that if from the hostel you can't see any of the higher peaks, take the western route. This was my view at that time...
Higher peaks, what higher peaks? by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
So I took the western route, after having a nice chat with a fellow hiker and bird watcher (who fortunately pointed me in the right direction since I nearly took a wrong turn!). You soon pass the main feature of this route, the Whitewater Dash.
Whitewater Dash by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
Then follow the Whitewater Beck as it drops sharply down towards the edge of the Lake District
Following the Whitewater Beck by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
Rather annoyingly at this stage the weather finally improved, with blue skies making an appearance for a change!
The skies finally clearing by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
So just as I was leaving the Lake District, I could get a nice final look at a fell
A last good look at a fell by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
You now really start to head through a different type of terrain, with minor roads and farm tracks being the theme. The way passes through the hamlet of Branthwaite
Branthwaite by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
Which has on its outskirts a tiny old Victorian school. I find it amazing that this small building had a separate door for boys and girls!
A Caldbeck Board School by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
Then as the day drew to a close at just after 8pm I saw a rare sight for this walk - cattle!
A sign that the Lake District is being left behind by neilaholmesuk, on Flickr
I finished the day at a nice B&B in Caldbeck, exhausted after more than 21 miles of walking over 12 hours, 7 of which were done in various states of bad weather. I was definitely glad that I'd acquired some very good quality gloves and a waterproof Beanie hat recently, for they kept me quite dry and made the day bearable. Now I could look forward to a nice meal, a decent rest and a short final day of just 15.5 miles.
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