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 Topic: The Outback, Crocs & The Coast (Pt 7)
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20/1/2020 at 2:59am
Location: Melbourne Australia
Outfit: Windsor Rapid Off Road Van + tents
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It continues,
As we headed south towards Halls Creek we spotted this old Boab beside the road, the width of its trunk was nearly 3 metres
We stopped at Warnum to get some grits, while the girls organised that I took these pics of some artwork that had been painted on some rocks out the front.
And then this Brahman Bull strolled by as did a couple of horses, not something you see when you visit the shops in the big smoke!!!
Our next stop was at Halls Creek, quite a few don’t like it but if you take the time do get to know it or look a bit deeper it is an interesting place. Down the back streets many new buildings have been built and even a sub division with modern housing, a fair bit has been done to improve the infrastructure and lives for it’s inhabitants, black and white.
Along the main street some of the buildings still have that old feel to it, which I like, plus with signs like this how could you not want to potter about inside some of them!!
Outside the information centre there are a number of things to see, like these historic pieces of machinery.
But the one thing that I reckon is an absolute must see is this statue/memorial, to one of the most amazing characters that has ever lived in Australia, Russian Jack.
His exploits are far too many to mention here, but I reckon all should at some at stage read and learn more about this man and his life.
This link leads you to a detailed article about him, a bit of a read so if time is tight come back to it later, an amazing bloke.
https://www.hallscreekmotel.com.au/russian-jack
Our destination that day was Fitzroy Crossing, arriving there we had done just on 700ks but still had plenty of time and daylight left so set about doing a few things that we thought previously we wouldn’t have had time to do.
A colourful memorial at the site of the new river crossing, the Bridge was built in 1974 but because there was an old crossing (first used from the 1880s) and then another constructed in the 1930s this bridge is still called the new crossing.
The River just up from the Bridge and the Crossing Inn, built in the 1890s at the original crossing site which was chosen as it’s the narrowest part of the River in the region.
We then went for a swim in the Fitzroy River!! something I thought I or we would never do, but as the swimming pool at the Fitzroy River Resort/Lodge was out of order and the temp was nudging 40 we had to do something. A National Park staff member (Ranger) directed us to a spot that they and locals use, we were assured that there had never been an attack and all would be apples.
The girls never quite relaxed, particularly after I had previously told them a story (as we drove into town), about a mate who was told about a local who had been taken. It was kept quiet at the time, my mate was only told when some one raced up to him as he swam and told him to get the —- out of the water as it was only a week since that incident. All that happened over 30 years ago. The spot we swam at had no signs referring to it being a swimming area. (just incase someone did go missing and then the authorities may be held responsible!!!!!!!!)
Me being an old surfer who was used to keeping an eye out for fins, did look around a bit but crocs don’t have fins so I don’t know quite what I was looking for!
We decided at the last minute to do the Geikie Gorge boat tour again, just 6 of us on the boat but for Kristie this was a whole new experience. I was hoping for some dramatic late in the day cliff colours but clouds didn’t help, the calmness of the water gave us some lovely reflections though.
The turn around spot further up the river, it was here the (different) Ranger operating the boat after one of my questions re munchy crocs said that yes it is possible but very very rare that Salty’s make it this far up the river, but they did catch one in a trap maybe 10 years previous, you want to have seen the look on the girls faces, particularly Kristies “priceless, if only I’d been a bit quicker with the camera!!
Some more reflections on the way back, in hindsight the scenes we saw were every bit as good as the ones that I had hoped to see, different and a bit more arty farty I suppose.
A comment about the Fitzroy River Lodge where we camped that night, we had booked months earlier and paid a deposit (Jen is so efficient, too much so this time), when we arrived we were so much looking forward to a swim but were told the pool was out of order!! Well stuff happens I guess, but there was no discount on the $60.00 for a bit of dirt to pitch our tents on which I thought was a bit of a rip off, no wonder I like to camp away from such places.
On our way to our first destination the next day, Tunnel Creek, a roadside scene at the start of the Napier Range and a water crossing that we were surprised to see so late in the dry season.
Tunnel Creek, is a cave system that has been carved out by the waters of Tunnel Creek flowing beneath and through the Range. It is predominately limestone which are the remains of an ancient reef system that was laid down under an ocean around 365 million years previous, it is the oldest cave system in Western Australia.
The walking track to the tunnel and then the entrance itself, it is a bit of a scramble to get in.
A hundred metres or so inside the cave, looking back towards the entrance.
Just before we walked through the next section of water (in near complete darkness) our torches spotted a sizeable fresh water croc resting on a sand bank beside the next pool of water, Kristie nearly pooped herself as it wasn’t far away. I quickly led the girls into the water before he went in so they had no option but to follow, Kristie just had this incredulous look on her face as I had not mentioned that they were in the cave system, if I had there was no way she would have gone through.
We then approached the centre of the cave/tunnel where the roof had collapsed letting in some natural light, that guy in the distance was a Swiss tourist who’s partner was afraid of the dark so he had gone in alone. He was so glad to see us and followed us all the way through hardly leaving our sides as they had no crocs where he came from Ha!!
This first pic is of the collapsed roof area as we neared it and then the next looking back towards it as we went further into the pitch black on our way through the Range.
The scene on the other side of the Range as you emerge into daylight.
On our return we were just about to enter the first pool when we heard the splash of a croc entering it before us, the girls gave me the what in the heck do we do now look, we entered it staying in a tight bunch and as far from the splash as we could (which wasn’t far) our swiss friend was rubbing shoulders with us the whole time Ha! He certainly had some stories for his other half and friends back home.
This cave/tunnel is famous or notorious for a number of events during the 1890s. An Aboriginal leader by the name of Jandamarra led the resistance against Europeans taking over their land and the massacres that were inflicted on his people at that time. He evaded capture for a number of years but ultimately lost his life to a Aboriginal police tracker who was brought in from the Pilbara Region to help track him down. He was killed in a shoot out in front of the cave on April 1 1897.
His story and that of the settlement of this part of the Kimberley is one that all should know a little about, the book “Jandamarra and the Bunuba Resistance” is a fascinating insight into the history of the region as well as that of Australia in general. I have just finished reading it for the second time and a lot of it should be taught in our schools. It was quite horrific what occurred all those years ago.
It’s amazing how little of our past is known by the majority of us today.
Between Tunnel Creek and Wandjina Gorge are the ruins of the Lillimooloora Police Station that were built in the early 1890s. It was a very remote spot then but an effort had to be made to bring some sort of law and order to the region. It ended up being a base for which many attacks and atrocities were carried out against the locals in the name of justice for the whites for having livestock taken for food etc.
We now headed for Wandjina Gorge, our Swiss friend had told Kristie of the crocs he saw there the day before so the surprise factor of so many freshies in such a small area had been diminished but they still were impressive in number, he counted 15 in the main pool, we counted 18.
Previously when I had been there you could see many laying on the banks. Due to it being so hot most were laying in the water although one after his cooling swim! got out on the bank for us.
And then a stretch before again dozing beside the water.
The Gorge and what is now known as Pigeon Rock. That rock was always a sacred site but when Jandamarra was shot by police beside it in 1894 and survived, it became even more magical in the eyes of the local Bunuba people. (Jandamarra’s nickname given to him by Europeans at the time was Pigeon)
One thing that I had always wanted to do was have a swim at the Gorge, as it was hot and I was there possible for the last time, in I went. The girls were amazed as were a couple of others nearby but of course Big Col survived. On the way back to our car I walked around to that croc basking in the sun for one last pic.
On the road to Derby we pulled over to admire this absolutely huge humongous Boab.
Not a lot had changed at the Derby Jetty, tides are still huge, they in fact are the highest or greatest difference between high and low tides in Australia at 11.8 metres. That doesn’t happen all the time but when it does it is an amazing sight to see.
And then the tide partially in, (taken early the next morning)
When the tide is low the remains of Derby’s first Jetty built in 1894 are still visible.
Near the start of the jetty was this old crane and then a short distance from there we drove out onto the towns tidal flats, cause you could.
We visited the historic Dinner Tree at One Mile Camp, it was located (strangely enough) a mile from the wharf area, it was here that Drovers would camp prior to taking their cattle to the wharf.
The old Pioneer Cemetery.
The historic Derby Gaol built in 1906 was in use up until 1975, many many horrific tales are now being told of what happened there. I know it is history and we are judging then by our standards of today but the treatment dished out then was inhumane in any era.
We booked into the caravan park, the owner said he would put us on the last grassed site available, we said that would be nice.
A pic of our grassy site!!!!!!!!!!
After getting everything set up, we then spent the rest of the day at their pool, so nice!!!
Fish n chips on the jetty and then a sunset over the King Sound, doesn’t get much better than that.
We then revisited the Dinner Boab.
The next day we were heading for Cape Leveque.
Col and Jen.
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The worst day above ground, is a whole lot better than the best one under it. Live life to the fullest while you can.
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02/2/2020 at 5:22am
Location: Melbourne Australia
Outfit: Windsor Rapid Off Road Van + tents
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Thanks Les,
Yes the Boabs are pretty unique, such unusual shapes and the large old ones are very old as well.
Deborah, those crocs tend not to eat humans!! There are two varieties in Australia, Salties and Freshies. Saltwater crocs can grow in excess of 5 metres long and they would kill a human in minutes even quicker and they would never hesitate to attack so you never go anywhere near them, they are dangerous.
However Freshwater crocs grow only to a maximum of maybe 3 metres and are more timid, they have been known to attack/bite humans but it is usually by mistake. They may confuse you with a fish Ha! Going through that cave is sort of like a right of passage for visitors.
If you're ever out here, I'll take you through. Imagine the stories you could tell your grandkids (that's if you survive Ha!!)
Another thing about Freshies is they tend to hunt at night, and we went through that cave at about midday so no probs there! (Please don't ask how the crocs differentiate between it being pitch black in the cave, and not being night time Ha)
Great country, if you can survive the wildlife.
We have had a few deaths from sharks this summer,(and snakes) but no tales from those on this trip.
Regards Col.
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The worst day above ground, is a whole lot better than the best one under it. Live life to the fullest while you can.
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