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 Topic: An Epic Outback Trip (Part Seven)
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27/11/2017 at 8:53am
Location: Melbourne Australia
Outfit: Windsor Rapid Off Road Van + tents
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Hi everyone,
I have been really toying up whether to keep posting these reports here, they don't create much interest so this maybe the last. Each report is unique in what it shows, so maybe this one will be enjoyed.
Early one morning whilst in Broome, there was a very low tide so we headed off to Gantheaume Point at the southern end of Cable Beach to view some dinosaur tracks found there.
As you arrive at the point the first thing you see is the chimney ruins of the old lighthouse keepers quarters, it was built in 1905 at the same time as the first lighthouse tower, sadly the house burnt down in 1970. A new residence was built but when the current stainless steel lighthouse tower was erected in 1984 it was sold and became a private residence, with views to die for! (not really, it’s just an old saying ok!)
Just beyond the house at the base off these cliffs there are a number of dinosaur tracks/prints (if the tide is low enough), all of these have been heritage listed.
There are at least nine different types of footprint found there, embedded in the 130 million year old sandstone.
These first ones are the foot prints of Sauropods, a Brontosaurus type of dinosaur that grew to around 30 metres in length and weighed up to 70 tonnes, they were the largest creatures ever to roam the earth living between 100 to 200 million years ago. Their prints can be over 80 cms in diameter.
These three toed Theropod prints belonged to a five metre long Tyrannosaurus type of predatory dinosaur named Megalosaurus broomensus.
An unusual growth we found growing between the rocks.
From there we took the coastal track towards the harbour, I loved this short cut I reckon you will know why.
The track takes you past Reddell’s Beach which has some quite unusual rock formations along it, a few dinosaur prints along the shoreline can be seen as well.
It also has an interesting history, Captain Reddell owned one of the largest fleets of pearling luggers in the N.W. of Australia. In 1899 just after leaving Broome there was a mutiny on board his boat, he, his son along with a Japanese crew member were all brutally murdered and thrown overboard, that’s one way to get something named after you!
A few more photos from around the port area.
That chop was not created by wind but by a receding tide that literally rips around some of the points and infrastructure there.
Broome was founded in 1883, by the late 1880s it was booming with two stores and a few scattered houses!! It had no road or rail to it and totally depended on limited sea transport for its supplies and communication.
The only water available was from a native well and the Mangrove swamps were full of mosquitoes, not a holiday destination that’s for sure but in 1889 it changed forever when the international submarine telegraph cable came ashore there, on what is today known as Cable Beach.
The town grew rapidly driven by the search for pearls, no modern underwater equipment in those early days, the divers were forced to dive for them only resurfacing when they ran out of breath.
The cemetery is all the reminder you need to see how dangerous it was. Hundreds of Japanese pearlers lost their lives from accidents, the bends, shark attacks even cyclones. It was quite moving seeing the graves, their final resting place being so far from loved ones and their country of birth.
Just above Cable beach is this commemorative statue/bust of the man who was more responsible than any other for the beautiful modern town of Broome that we see today.
On our last afternoon there we took a wildlife watching catamaran trip out onto Roebuck Bay. It was a relaxing way to spend a few hours plus a chance to see a very unique mammal as well as other marine life.
They had a most unusual way of getting us out onto the yacht as these next pics show.
We sailed past the Broome Jetty and harbour area and then off into the wild blue yonder.
The main feature or reason for our eco tour was to see one of the worlds newest described species of Dolphin, the Snub Fin Dolphin. It was only in 2005 that it was realised that it was indeed a new species and not a sub species of the Irrawaddy Dolphin, it was the first newly discovered species in the world for over 56 years.
It is extremely shy and it’s numbers are very low so it was very hard to photograph, these next photos I have downloaded from the net so you can see a more detailed view of it’s quite different shaped head.
But more often than not this is what you see as they quickly disappeared once found.
Earlier this year David Attenborough visited the bay to do a special on them, apparently that will be released for viewing shortly.
On our last evening we again witnessed a spectacular sunset, each night we would view it from a different location all within a short distance of each other and our accommodation. It was a bit sad knowing that our time in Broome was up but it also meant that the next part of our trip was about to start which we really looked forward to.
A couple of hundred ks north of Broome is Cape Leveque, one of our all time favourite destinations and that’s where we were now headed.
About half way there you come to the Beagle Bay Aboriginal Community founded by French “Trappist” monks in 1890 (the general area had been occupied for many thousands of years before that) it was then taken over by German missionaries in 1900. In 1918 a significant event happened, the opening of their Church.
A lovely building and those who have followed my reports over a number of years would know that I’m a bit partial to taking a pic or two of churches, however it is the inside of this one that has nearly every person who passes by calling in to have a squiz!
When World War I broke out in 1914, all the Germans in this corner of Australia (mostly missionaries) were arrested and interned at Beagle Bay. They decided to build a durable church to survive the cyclones, white ants and bush fires that had destroyed the previous wooden ones.
Ninety thousand bricks were fashioned by hand and fired. Mortar was made from the ashes of burnt shells. The building was completed in 1917 and then a team of Aboriginal women working under the direction of a German priest decorated the interior with mother of pearl, cowrie, volute and olive snail shells.
A year later, they had produced a work of art that is quite unique in the world using European mosaic techniques, it includes Christian symbols, "saltwater people" totems, dingos, snakes, emus, fish, shields and spears.
Inside the church and the famous Altar.
Nearby was this religious alcove.
In the school building next to that we could hear the local children singing, they sounded happy and enthusiastic the whole vibe of the community was far better than what we had witnessed on our last visit, which was good to see. Great for the locals and well done to all that had changed things around.
Further up the road closer to Cape Leveque we called into the Lombadina Aboriginal Community, the reason for that was to see and photograph an historic, heritage listed church that I had read about; yes another church!
A day permit was purchased from their office on arrival which enables you to access all areas and their beach, it was the best $10.00 we have ever spent. The guy who gave us our permit was so friendly and welcoming, he came outside with a mud map and pointed to various features, telling us their history and helping us to get our bearings etc, just terrific.
A couple of pics of the central square area near their administration building.
Notice the street humps, they tended to keep the speed and dust down, I just loved the red colour contrasting with the palm trees, green grass and vivid blue skies, just beautiful.
As I have mentioned there was a very unique church there that I wanted to see. Built out of local mangrove and paperbark timbers in around 1930, the construction was done by Brother Josef Tautz who had some carpentry knowledge and locals using their bush skills passed down over centuries.
But it was inside that blew us away, how unique is this.
Being a carpenter/builder, I was so impressed with how and what it was built from.
Next door to that was the Presbytery built in a similar style.
We didn’t get to see inside their local museum/art building as it was shut, one of the local Aboriginals said he would go and wake up his nana (who was having her midday nap) so she could open it up and show us around. We were insistent that she be left to sleep but very appreciative of his offer, we had a bit of a chat with him, what a lovely guy he was, informing us that he knew Melbourne well as he was educated at Scotts College, one of the high falutin posh schools found there!!
All that was pretty amazing, as was the paddle pops (icy poles) we bought from the local store! but earlier we were given instructions on how to find a track that would lead us down to their beach, (Thomas Bay) This is where amazing was taken to a whole new level.
The local Bardi people are known as “Salt Water People” the nearby ocean has been part of their lives for tens of thousands of years, being a source of food and spirituality, so this part of their community was very special to them, and we soon found out why.
We drove across some dunes then onto and along one of the most beautiful stretches of white sandy beach that we had ever been on. Fringed by crystal clear turquoise waters, a brilliantly blue sky above how sensational was this, over 7 kilometres of absolute bliss and we had it all to ourselves.
Jen was quickly in for a swim, how could you not want to immerse yourself in those warm tropical waters, after taking a quick couple of pics I was in with her quick smart.
We drove the full length of the beach, swam at a couple of stops along it and just had an absolute ball. We were the only two in the whole world who had that experience at that time, at that spot, wow wee!!!!!
But we had to move on for our destination that day was Cape Leveque and that is where we then headed. That and a whole lot more will be shown in my next report, till then.
Regards, Col and Jen.
Post last edited on 27/11/2017 08:59:33
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The worst day above ground, is a whole lot better than the best one under it. Live life to the fullest while you can.
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27/11/2017 at 11:48pm
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Joined: 23/8/2009 Diamond Member 
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Quote: Originally posted by Aussie Col on 27/11/2017
Hi everyone,
I have been really toying up whether to keep posting these reports here, they don't create much interest so this maybe the last. Each report is unique in what it shows, so maybe this one will be enjoyed.
I am sure most people, like me, have thoroughly enjoyed your reports and photos but didn't think comment was required. There isn't a lot can be said for such well written reports except, thank you.
Although I spent a lot of time in Australia in the late 60's and early 70's when I was in the merchant navy, it was mostly in the coastal regions, especially Sydney, and I didn't venture inland much. I did once go on a tour into the bush out of Townsville I believe it was, so have some idea of the landscape but nothing quite so remote as the areas you have visited and photographed and it was 50 years ago so memories are fading.
50 years ago even the towns and cities were not as built up and populated as they are now and I can remember the Sydney Opera House being built and Luna Park was still open.
I have read your posts with very much interest...you should write a book 
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