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Topic: Chemin de Mont st Michel trip report

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Ewen c

25/7/2018 at 6:56pm
Location: County Kildare Ireland EU.
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Site reviews to follow as some sites not listed.

This will take a number of posts spread over time.
This year we decided to walk a portion of the Chemin de Mont St Michel which follows, in parts, the GR223 in Normandy. Work and time meant we could not start in Cherbourg so we started the walk in Coutances.
Here is a screen dump from Garmin Basecamp showing our log

The longest day was 19km. Average was 15. We took a 3 night break in Coutances and a day off in Genets. Accomodation was mainly our Coleman Cobra but we had a hotel in Cherbourg, a B&B in Genets and a hotel in MsM as well. Total walk was just over 130KM.
The weather was glorious and often too hot for walking. This coast is sadly overlooked in the rush south. We were very impressed.

And yes, that map is correct. We did cross the bay of Mont St Michel on foot......but the tide was out.

Post last edited on 25/07/2018 19:15:13

Post last edited on 25/07/2018 19:16:21

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Ewen c

25/7/2018 at 7:27pm
Location: County Kildare Ireland EU.
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We drove to Roslaire ferry port, parked the car and headed to the terminal as foot passengers. The Rucksacks weighed about 18 kg for 2.5 weeks holiday. We were travelling Stenaline on the Stena Horizon and had taken a Captain's cabin to give us a bit of luxury...it was our 20th anniversary.

Ireland gave us a gift on leaving....an amazing sunset

The next day we would be in Cherbourg but, due to the train strike, we would have an extra day in Cherbourg. Still days until we had to start walking.

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Ewen c

25/7/2018 at 7:36pm
Location: County Kildare Ireland EU.
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The boat was basic but we had our cabin. We arrived in Cherbourg in the late afternoon and set off for the Hotel Mercure at the fishing port. Excellent hotel, by the way. Great staff, great room and good food.
That evening we ate in the hotel and went for a walk round the port. We know Cherbourg quite well so it was a stroll and a few drinks and back to bed.

The next day we decided to do the museums. We walked up to the resistance museum

By the time we got there it was closed for lunch. Luckily the nice man on his lunch let us pedestrians in.

Then it was of to the Thomas Henry museum which had a surprising collection of art and then off to the quai for our evening meal. The next day we had to get the train to Coutances and the weather was getting hotter.....

Post last edited on 25/07/2018 20:43:23

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Coleman Cobra 2
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Ewen c

25/7/2018 at 8:40pm
Location: County Kildare Ireland EU.
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The next day consisted of a train to Coutances via Lison and then a long walk to the Coutances municipal on the outskirts of town. A shaded pitch was ideal for our needs and we pitched the coleman to the sounds of the Normandy boules championship in the sports ground next door.
We then took off up hill to the town and the tourist office to get our caarnet stmped. As we were doing a pilgrim route we could get a special book stamped at each stage and eventually receive a certificate of completion in MsM. The ladies in the tourist office knew exactly what we required and wished us Bonne route.
Coutances is a charming town. Our original plans were to spend an extra day there but thanks to striking SNCF employees we missed out. We did get to see the Cathedral which was lovely and cool in the heat and have cider in a cafe on the pavee.

Then it was back to prepare dinner.

Ah, my poor trangia.......more later

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Ewen c

25/7/2018 at 8:57pm
Location: County Kildare Ireland EU.
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This day was our first walking day.
We kept our yes peeled for our route signs rather than cheating with the gps.

This was our route marker

stuck on lamposts, road signs, fence posts etc. If stuck we could follow the GR signs of red and white bars.

The path took us through woods and past a horticultural college, down lanes through the bocage

and by sleepy hamlets until we reached the pont du roque. The original bridge was bombed to try and bottle up German troops. A bailey bridge was then used until recently when the new road bridge was built. You can see the rusted remains of the Bailey bridge that crossed the bombed out spans. This made a great stop for break. The sun was fierce and we were glad of our water bladders and factor 50. We still had to reach Montmartin sur mer and the heat was sapping our strength.

So we set off again down back lanes where I made the mistake of getting my arm stung from elbow to wrist by nettles. Montmartin sur mer had signs for the tourist office but no office so we headed downhill to the municipal....absolutely knackered in the heat. Lovely pitch, lovely hosts but no shop nearby. We dug out our MREs and I set up the gas insert for the trangia...............which melted. The gas stove was a cousin of a blowtorch and burnt the upper windshield which collapsed. A stove was made out of the base, the spirit burner and four tent pegs. This would be our stove for the next 10 days. I was so knackered and sunburnt I didnt really care or take a picture.
We slept well that evening and were in bed early as we had an early start for a 19km walk the next day.

Post last edited on 25/07/2018 21:12:08

Post last edited on 25/07/2018 21:13:51

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Mucker1884

25/7/2018 at 9:24pm
Location: Derby.
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Please don't rush with the next episode... my feet are aching already!
...and that tiny little tent, ooh my back!

And as for being sat on the floor cooking, well... I just know I'm going to be absolutely shattered by the end of this! Thank God I've got a proper holiday booked for 5 weeks tomorrow... I fear I'm gonna need it!

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Ewen c

25/7/2018 at 9:32pm
Location: County Kildare Ireland EU.
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That tent is absolutely massive. We spoiled ourselves. We also had comfy airmats and pillows on top of our karrimats. No sore feet at all. Good shoes and socks and lots of wine and cider helped.
The wife has asked me to plan a week on the Kungsleden trail in Sweden. Maybe she could suggest such a trip to muckerette

Another two days and there is a three day break in Granville.....which we walked around a lot.

-------------
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seanfdh

25/7/2018 at 9:34pm
Location: North Devon
Outfit: Robens Fairbanks Coleman Phad X3

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Looking good so far. Quite relieved that there are no pics of the terrrible Trangia tragedy.
We used Cherbourg quite a few times when my mother lived in Dorset. I reckon most of the channel ports in France merit more time than we tend to give them.

-------------
Sean

Mucker1884

25/7/2018 at 9:40pm
Location: Derby.
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Quote: Originally posted by Ewen c on 25/7/2018
That tent is absolutely massive.

Yeah right! Your camera angle is looking down on the roof... and I bet you ain't even climbed a tree for it!!

"Massive" my ar5e!

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Mucker1884

25/7/2018 at 9:47pm
Location: Derby.
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Quote: Originally posted by Ewen c on 25/7/2018
The wife has asked me to plan a week on the Kungsleden trail in Sweden. Maybe she could suggest such a trip to muckerette

Hey, you never know, Ewen... we did a 7 mile circuit on Sunday... including up through the nice cool shaded woods from Ambergate to Crich.
I reckon if we pace ourselves, and have the back-up team go ahead in the car to pitch our (big) tent for us, and prepare our evening meal (and do the washing up!) we could possibly push it to 8 miles a day!!

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Ewen c

25/7/2018 at 10:04pm
Location: County Kildare Ireland EU.
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For backpacking it is massive, the tent that is, not your arse

It was a tad heavy at 2.7 kilos but it is a 3 person. The next one will be half that weight and only a two man.
If you want small, my newest 1 man tent is about the size of a coffin....
I reckon you could do a lot more than 8 miles. I remember you buying leki poles and going hill walking.....

-------------
Hypercamp Alaska
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Vango F10 Helium 1
Coleman Cobra Pro 3
Coleman Cobra 2
Naturehike Star River 2
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Ewen c

25/7/2018 at 10:07pm
Location: County Kildare Ireland EU.
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Quote: Originally posted by seanfdh on 25/7/2018
Looking good so far. Quite relieved that there are no pics of the terrrible Trangia tragedy.
We used Cherbourg quite a few times when my mother lived in Dorset. I reckon most of the channel ports in France merit more time than we tend to give them.

We reckoned we could easily spend another week in Cherbourg and we have already spent two weeks near there 4 years ago.

-------------
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Coleman Cobra Pro 3
Coleman Cobra 2
Naturehike Star River 2
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Ewen c

30/7/2018 at 9:06pm
Location: County Kildare Ireland EU.
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Well, I let Mucker have a wee break to recover.....
The third day was the longest and our first day at the coast.
We left Montmartin sur Mer and headed down to the dunes. All round were sheep grazing on the salt laden meadows by the sea. These would become a familiar sight and they are delicious as we were to find.

We were hoping to be in time for the restaurant at Les Salines but the winding route ate up the time and the place was closed. Luckily the tide was out so we were able to cross the causeway and head for camping Vanlee.

Unfortunately the shop wasnt open for the season at the campsite and the cafe didnt open until five. We pitched our tent slightly off our assigned pitch as it was so sandy and covered in thistles.

The upside was the beach and the meal and beer in the cafe which had great hosts.

The next day would be short along the beach to Donneville les bains. We went to bed quite ready to leave early as the site didn't really appeal to us.

Post last edited on 30/07/2018 21:29:21

-------------
Hypercamp Alaska
Vango Force 10 mk3
Vango F10 Helium 1
Coleman Cobra Pro 3
Coleman Cobra 2
Naturehike Star River 2
Eureka! Solitaire
Dutch army goretex bivvy bag

Ewen c

30/7/2018 at 9:17pm
Location: County Kildare Ireland EU.
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9km to Donneville. We grabbed breakfast in a cafe in St Martin de Brehal and set off along the esplanade. The route took us along the dunes but we headed to the firm sand at the sea for fast walking.

We could see the poles for the mussel farms

and could also look back to where we had come from in the distance

Camping l'ermitage was to be our home for three nights

That evening we ate at the restaurant at the entrance to the site. We liked it so much, we ate there for the other two nights too. This was meant to be two days rest but we spent tbe time walking round Granville and managed to do 15km each day. Some rest.

-------------
Hypercamp Alaska
Vango Force 10 mk3
Vango F10 Helium 1
Coleman Cobra Pro 3
Coleman Cobra 2
Naturehike Star River 2
Eureka! Solitaire
Dutch army goretex bivvy bag

Greg M

31/7/2018 at 7:59am
Location: South Wales
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Hi Ewen,
Thanks for sharing, really enjoyed the photos and commentary.
Regards,
Greg

-------------
Growing old is not for sissies

Ewen c

31/7/2018 at 8:03am
Location: County Kildare Ireland EU.
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Cheers Greg. Still about another week to go......

-------------
Hypercamp Alaska
Vango Force 10 mk3
Vango F10 Helium 1
Coleman Cobra Pro 3
Coleman Cobra 2
Naturehike Star River 2
Eureka! Solitaire
Dutch army goretex bivvy bag

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