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I've noticed there loads of types of rock pegs (diffrent heads, glow in the dark, screw grooves)

My question is which is better?
Ones with no screw grooves

Or ones with screw grooves


I thought the ones without the grooves would be weaker but would grip better. I'll be using these with delta rocks for the front and back of a tunnel tent (corado 6)

I had the heads snap off these last year and also had allot break. Problem is i'm never to sure what the surface is going to be like that they give us as a camping area, so i like to take loads of diffrent pegs to make sure i'm covered.

It was mainly the main rod it's self that i was unsure about. Do the pegs need the screw grooves?

I'll also be using the rock pegs in standard form to peg other things down e.g. the shower tent which needs some good pegs in the wind.

I got some rock pegs with a frame tent I bought second hand. They have really chunky nylon tops that stick out either side so can be used as the pegging down point rather than passing behind the peg itself. I have not yet managed to break any of the nylon tops by hitting them with the hammer or when pulling them out. Can't say who they are supplied by though. If I located the supplier, I would buy some more.

I have only used the plain shaft type. I would think the screw type will be slightly harder to pull out unless you use some type of twisting extractor to remove them, but only in very hard ground. If fitted at the correct angle, I don't see either type holding any better when a sideways pull is on them.

Quote: Originally posted by griff10553 on 27/1/2012

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We use Tarzan rock pegs because they are lot easier to get out than the ones in your pictures.

We have used the ones you show and have had that many plastic/nylon heads snap off. A lot of people like them them but we don`t.

Griff

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Quote: Originally posted by Tentz on 27/1/2012

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Strongest are the type with metal cross pieces but hard on bare feet if they get trodden on.

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I use this type

The plastic heads seem to be welded onto the stems and are about a centimetre below the striking plate so unless you are a terrible shot with a hammer you are not likely to hit the plastic and break it. They are quite a tough nylon even if you do hit them and I haven't managed to break one yet, and I belt them in with a lump hammer and pull them out with an ordinary peg puller.

I feel that the threaded shank is likely to aid grip better than a smooth shank (whether it actually does or not I don't know). Another advantage is that if the pegs are quite tight to pull out, a couple of twists anticlockwise usually frees them, so I now swear by them and use nothing else. They grip well and do the job.

A threaded shank will do absolutely zero to help the stability of the tent especially if you have bashed them in with a lump hammer. The thread will have made a perfect bore in the soil.
Don't forget, the force in a guy is at right angles to the peg and threads are designed to create resistance parallel with the shank.

If there are rocks there and they haven't stripped your peg of all its thread then you may just get a look in by twisting them but any rock peg will be freed of restraint if twisted.

The mind really does boggle.

The thread on a rock peg is not intended to be used for screwing them in. They probably wouldn't screw in if you tried. The thread acts as extra friction on the shank rather than having a smooth shank, but the thread does help, as I said, when extracting them. However, both type of rock pegs work well in most soil conditions.

As for making a perfect bore in the soil, if you have ever got your legs stuck in quicksand or mud you will know how powerful a suction that can be and the same principle applies to tent pegs. 

Since one of the most common complaints about rock pegs is that they are sometimes difficult to get out, I think that speaks for itself with regards to efficiency.

If you peg a tent properly the angle between the peg and the guy should be such that when pulling pressure is applied to the guy the loop around the peg potentially slides down the shank to the ground, thus tending to push the peg further in rather then pulling it out.

Try a little experiment with a pencil and a piece of string. Loop the string around the pencil and apply a little pressure while leaning the pencil away from the string. At a point where the string slides to the bottom of the pencil is the angle the peg should be...it will be a little less than 45 degrees to the ground (or table in the case of a pencil)

It's all to do with the laws of physics, Rob

In the end i went for a mixture :D

10 x delta nylon
2 x delta rocks
Box of 20 of these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rock-Pegs-20-Hard-Standing-Free-Hard-Case-/170770700181?pt=UK_SportsLeisure_HikingCamping_Tents_JN&hash=item27c2ba1795
I liked the loops on the plastic heads so i can attach other things if needed.

Quote: Originally posted by Bob61 on 27/1/2012

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I use this type

<img style="WIDTH: 147px; HEIGHT: 128px" src="https://i.ebayimg.com/00/$(KGrHqUOKjsE25h4yObSBNy6zgO6o!~~_12.JPG" width=324 alt=448>

The plastic heads seem to be welded onto the stems and are about a centimetre below the striking plate so unless you are a terrible shot with a hammer you are not likely to hit the plastic and break it. They are quite a tough nylon even if you do hit them and I haven't managed to break one yet, and I belt them in with a lump hammer and pull them out with an ordinary peg puller.

I feel that the threaded shank is likely to aid grip better than a smooth shank (whether it actually does or not I don't know). Another advantage is that if the pegs are quite tight to pull out, a couple of twists anticlockwise usually frees them, so I now swear by them and use nothing else. They grip well and do the job.

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