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Subject Topic: Trailers – Some things to think about! Post Reply Post New Topic
13/6/2011 at 6:46pm
 Location: Manchester
 Outfit: 2010 Bailey Pegasus
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Trailers – Some things to think about!

Having spent a while thinking about buying, looking for, buying then adapting a trailer I just thought I'd pull some thoughts together. There is nothing necessarily factual here, just my thought and opinions. Please feel free to comment, contradict and critique and perhaps we can create a page that pulls all of the wisdom together in one place? I'll start!

New or Second-hand?
Apply the same rules as you would if you were buying a car is probably the best advice I can give. With new you will get what you see and have some comeback if things go wrong however you obviously pay a premium for that comfort. Defective trailers are every bit as likely to cause disaster if they fail and every bit as likely to get you fined by the police as a defective car would.

There is a huge market for second-hand trailers and it's not hard to track one down. Prices tend to be higher in the Summer months and cheaper in the Winter and if purchasing a larger trailer you will start to compete on auction sites with tradesmen as well which can bump the price up.

Think about the future, both in terms of use, size and also upgrading perhaps. Does the trailer you want have a standard size cover if it needs replacing? Can you fit high-sides? Load-Bars? Cycle Racks etc. How much do the upgrades cost?

Some things to check on any second-hand trailer are -:

Rust / Rot – Generally easy to spot, look in particular at the suspension mountings and the area around the hitch. Wooden trailers can easily be restored with new panels using tongue and groove boards and marine plywood. Galvanised trailers tend to look weathered rather than rusty. Small rusty patches can be dealt with by rubbing back to good metal and treating however I'd avoid any trailer with large or structural rust patches.
Electrics – You will want to see them working, not least because you have to tow it home. If there is any doubt about the electrics (many sellers claim 'not to have a tow-bar anymore' to absolve themselves of warranting this) be wary. If you buy one untested, make sure you have a spare lighting board or else you may be bringing it back illegally. A new wiring loom is approximately £40 and two hours to fit. Bulbs are easy to change and a few pounds.
Tyres – Tread depth usually isn't an issue (although still check it). Trailer tyres generally degrade through use and exposure. The clearest sign will be cracks and rippling on the tyre walls. If you are buying a trailer that has clearly been used as a 'builders skip' the closer I'd recommend checking the tyres. A new 8-10” wheel and tyre at the time of writing is approximately £40 and ten minutes to fit.

To be continued......


Post last edited on 13/06/2011 21:28:26


13/6/2011 at 6:46pm
 Location: Manchester
 Outfit: 2010 Bailey Pegasus
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Continued....

Bearings – Most trailers are light enough to lift up on one side. Spin the wheel. It should rotate quietly and without wobble. Excessive rumbling or wobble and it's likely the bearings are on the way out. Grip the wheel and try to twist it towards and away from you. Ideally it shouldn't move although in any used trailer a small amount of give is possible. If it's excessive then the wheel bearings are on the way out or gone. Wheels that are too hot to touch with your hand after a few miles driving is another sign. New 'sealed unit' type bearings cost around £12 per pair to buy and take around an hour to replace.
Tow Hitch – The hitch should operate with a definite click with the handle moving freely up and down. Check the weld (or bolt) points for damage and rust. Cost to replace a 'bolt on' hitch is around £30 and thirty minutes work.
Suspension and Shock Absorbers – Not all trailers have shock absorbers (some home made trailers have been known not to have any suspension!). The best you can realistically do is check for leaks and worn mounting bushes and check that the trailer sits level when looked at from the back. The suspension is generally (should be) too firm to do the 'push it down and see if it bounces to much trick' much favoured by tyre-kicking car buyers. A replacement shock absorber is upwards of £70 and should be replaced in pairs. Replacement suspension units can be upwards of £70 each


*Prices based around commercially built, metal/galvanised trailers up to 7 years old. Self-
built / wooden units have so many possibilities it's impossible to cost.


Wood or Metal?
In use, both are as good as each other and each has pros and cons. The main thing to check if buying a DIY trailer in wood or metal is it's capacity. A seller telling you that 'its solid as a rock and can carry a ton' won't help much when faced with a traffic police officer who doesn't like the look of your set-up. Most commercially built trailers will have the weights and values stamped on a plate. In any case it is your responsibility to ensure you are towing safely and check kerb weights and load weights accordingly.
Common commercial makes are Erde, Daxara (these two are the same company) and Franc.
Brenderup is perceived to be the 'next tier' in trailers with Ifor Williams probably the best known although most of the Williams range are more 'industrial'. Any of the above are likely to be excellent buys having been around for several years. You will find a multitude of replacement parts for Erde, Daxara and Brenderup making replacement parts easy to obtain.

Metal / Galvanised
Lighter
Many can be stored on end
Generally factory built therefore sourcing spares can be easier
Maintenance free (generally) however more difficult to restore and paint than wood
Generally more expensive than an equivalent sized wooden one.
Can easily be dented if careless (the side panels tend to be thin)

Wood
Generally cheaper than an equivalent sized metal one.
Easier to customize
Easier to restore and maintain
Tend to be home made designs making part identification harder in some cases.
Less liable to be dented in day to day use. Easy to repair if it happens.
Trailer weight and load capacity information may be difficult to ascertain.


To be continued.....

Post last edited on 13/06/2011 22:51:30


13/6/2011 at 6:46pm
 Location: Manchester
 Outfit: 2010 Bailey Pegasus
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Continued.....

How Big?
Most people would say as big as you can! This is pretty sound advice however there are a few things to bear in mind
Storage - The trailer will spend more time in storage than it will in use. Where will you keep
it? Some modern galvanised trailers are designed to be stored 'on end' which might be a consideration. In practice I've found this of limited value though personally.
Cost – The cost can escalate quite dramatically as size increases.
Weight – Make sure you can manage the trailer loaded. There may be times that you will need to manoeuvre the trailer (maybe fully laden).
Usage – The trailer we have is perfect for what we need. Well until we bought the Outwell kitchen unit last week which just happens to be 10cm longer than the trailer... oops... It will go in on a slight diagonal however it highlights the point I think :)
If I personally had to pick the perfect size, being completely subjective I'd go for 5ft x 3.5ft or close to it.


Wheel Size
8” is pretty much the start point for commercially built trailers with 10” and 13” also being used. There is much talk about wheel sizes being important with larger tyres being less prone to puncture etc however there is little evidence that I've seen to support it. Certainly bigger, wider tyres spread the load which in theory reduces tyre stress (see above) however commercially built trailers are designed with this in mind therefore it's unlikely to be relevant. It is possible to change 8” wheel to 10” etc subject to certain conditions which I won't go into here!
     

Security
None – it is highly likely at some point that someone will take your trailer and sell it and it's contents on Ebay.
Wheel clamp – Highly visible deterrent however bear in mind it doesn't stop two blokes picking up smaller trailers and putting in the back of a transit van.
Hitch Lock – Comes in two forms. The first is a small lock that inserts into the hitch lock of many trailers. They cost about £5 and stop the hitch handle being raised. Useful for locking the trailer on the car whilst moving and stopping the casual thief taking the trailer whilst you are in the service station and locking it when unhitched to prevent it being attached to a car. They are pretty flimsy though and not hard to pick. The second is a more substantial £25-£100 unit most commonly seen on caravans. Fabulous as a deterrent however once again watch for two blokes in a transit....
Physical Attachment – A substantial chain and padlock fixing the suspension of your trailer to a post, your car or fence, if available, is a good security measure.
If parking up for a while the best additional measure that I've found is to screw a large 'dog spike' deep into the ground directly under the trailer axle. When the trailer is tightly chained to the spike it is almost impossible to unscrew the spike by twisting and it's very, very difficult to pull out the spike.
Finally, remember that larger trailers are more expensive on Ebay for a reason, they appeal to a wider 'community' sell for more and have a wider range of uses. That also makes them a bigger target.
The obvious point here is that if someone wants your trailer badly enough they will take it.

Other information
Almost all trailers that we might use for camping are 7-pin. Make sure that your towing electrics are compatible or buy an adapter
You will need a number plate to tow legally, make sure you take one, with some fixings when you go to collect. If you want to buy a number plate from a shop in the UK, you will need to take your V5 document. Alternatively buy one off Ebay however Ebay sellers get around the rules by supplying plates to you on the basis that they are 'show plates'. Make sure that the postcode of the Ebay seller you buy it from is printed at the bottom of the plate else it is not a legal numberplate. Most do, it's just worth checking.


13/6/2011 at 6:46pm
 Location: Manchester
 Outfit: 2010 Bailey Pegasus
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Driving Licences- In 1997 the 'laws' regarding what you are legally allowed to tow after passing the standard driving test changed. In it's simplest terms if you passed your driving licence before 1997 you have an entitlement to tow heavier caravan / trailer combinations than if you passed your driving test after 1997. It is highly unlikely that your average car towing a trailer that is being used for camping will be affected by this however it is possible and worth checking if you are in any doubt by checking *Here* (Thanks to Loz for this addition)

Post last edited on 14/06/2011 20:05:11


13/6/2011 at 7:05pm
 Location: Wirral
 Outfit: Adria Adora 532 UK & Outwell Nevada M
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Campalots thankyou so much for taking the time to produce such a comprehensive overview. It is highly informative for those looking to purchase a trailer and answers all the questions I posted when looking to get one earlier in the year. These questions come up so frequently I think this would be a great post to sticky at the top. It makes life so much easier having all the information in one place.


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13/6/2011 at 9:21pm
 Location: West Midlands
 Outfit: Mojave 5 Vermont XL and Oakland XL
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Wow, this is fab - we are toying with the idea of getting a trailer and this was a really helpful post! Thank you so much for taking so much time to put it together. I'd never even thought about the theft issue before..... makes me think twice about looking at the ads on eBay where they're selling trailers and lots of equipment.... I'm clearly more naive than I realised!

Thanks again for writing such an informative post(s)!!!!

-------------
Regards,
Kathryn



13/6/2011 at 10:09pm
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Brilliant, thank you!
Very useful for me having just arranged to buy a trailer - collecting on Saturday. It seems to tick all the boxes, but no money will change hands until I have had a good look at it as per your advice!

Actually you may be able to answer a query - why do some trailers have a single bar to the hitch and some have a V or A shaped bar, and does it make any difference?


13/6/2011 at 10:31pm
 Location: Manchester
 Outfit: 2010 Bailey Pegasus
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Hi Cathy,

It's to do with stress points and lateral flex mainly I guess although the details are lost on me I'm afraid, sorry!

As long as the trailer design is ok, there aren't many practical differences between the 'A/V' frames and single bar trailers that I've seen except that the A frames can accommodate other items bolted to it. Ive seen them with boxes holding gas bottles, fridges and holdalls fitted to them for example. Some A/V frames can also make a nice platform to accomodate bikes.

The only thing that I'd be wary of is a particularly wide DIY wooden trailer attached with a single bar, something wouldn't seem right with that and I'd be expecting an A/V frame or some serious over-engineering.

Short version is that if it's a properly made trailer, it will make no difference at all that I'm aware of.

I'll wait and see if anyone has any more information on this and add it to the original post as it's a point well worth adding in.

Good luck with the trailer purchase, I'm sure it will be perfect!

Post last edited on 13/06/2011 22:50:02


14/6/2011 at 5:54am
 Location: Ndidis Kraal
 Outfit: Laika Ecovip 100 & Quasar
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at "campalots" - Tyres: Have you had any experience of the chemicals that you can put in a tyre that seal punctures? I do not mean the ones that you use after the puncture has occured ie Tyre Weld but stuff used before the event.


14/6/2011 at 7:02am
 Location: Staffordshire
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The other thing is to check that your driving licence permits you to tow a trailer, as a from 1st Jan 1997 they changed the grading and if you passed you test after this date you have to take a test before you can tow!

-------------
LOZ


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14/6/2011 at 8:05am
 Location: Manchester
 Outfit: 2010 Bailey Pegasus
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Quote: Originally posted by RogLozLee on 14/6/2011
The other thing is to check that your driving licence permits you to tow a trailer, as a from 1st Jan 1997 they changed the grading and if you passed you test after this date you have to take a test before you can tow!


Hi Loz,

Thannks, that's absolutely true. The only reason I left the info out was because generally speaking car & trailer combinations used for camping won't come close to falling foul of the new rules. Having said that, it is possible (e.g. a very small car and very large trailer) and it's better not to assume anything therefore I'll add a brief summary and a link to the rules in the post.



14/6/2011 at 8:06am
 Location: Manchester
 Outfit: 2010 Bailey Pegasus
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Quote: Originally posted by happybonzo on 14/6/2011
at "campalots" - Tyres: Have you had any experience of the chemicals that you can put in a tyre that seal punctures? I do not mean the ones that you use after the puncture has occured ie Tyre Weld but stuff used before the event.


Hi,

Sorry, I've got not experience at all (with either type to be honest). Would be worth adding in though if anyone else knows the facts?



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