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Quote: Originally posted by Valk_scot on 09/7/2011
Did the friend have a SIG tent? That's one of the problems with fully sealed in groundsheets...few or no vents at floor level. As carbon monoxide is heavier than air it pools at floor level which is of course where most of us sleep. The recommendation is that you only use a gas fridge in a well ventilated area ie not in the main body of the tent but in a porch or kitchen tent. Same with all gas appliances...well ventilated areas only.
I was reading the posts and was interested in the right place to fit a Carbon monoxide detector myself. I have one in my camper van at about 5ft height on a wall near where we sleep. I was wondering if i had put it in the right place so after reading these posts i found this.
The need for carbon monoxide detectors grows daily and is now required in several areas. Thousands of people are treated for non-fire carbon monoxide poisoning each year; over 200 of these cases are usually fatal.
The Hazards of Carbon Monoxide
Carbon monoxide (CO) is a colorless, odorless gas that can be deadly. Symptoms of CO poisoning are similar to flu: headache, fatigue, shortness of breath, nausea, and dizziness.
Sources of CO include fireplaces, wood stoves, gas stoves, oil or gas furnaces, portable kerosene heaters (never sleep in a closed room with these!), charcoal grills, and car exhaust fumes. Most cases of non-fire carbon monoxide poisonings are related to car exhaust fumes and heating systems that were improperly installed, ventilated, maintained, or used.
Never run a car in an attached garage for more time than it takes to start up and back out, or to drive in and turn off the ignition. Warm up the car outside the garage, and make sure the wind doesn't blow exhaust back into the garage. A stack effect can occur between garage and house--especially on upper floors. Carbon monoxide can filter through walls and bleed into living areas even after you have left the garage.
Types of Detectors
Carbon monoxide detectors come in several forms: battery-operated, plug-in (Fig. 1), and hard-wired. Some AC-powered units come with battery backup. All types sound an alarm before the level of carbon monoxide becomes dangerous. Choose a detector that is approved by the Underwriters Laboratories (UL); you should see the UL symbol on the packaging.
To prevent false alarms, buy a CO detector that triggers faster or slower, depending on the amount of CO in the air. Alarms with state-of-the-art sensors are best and can eliminate false alarms.
Some early-warning alarms will trigger down to 65 ppm. This is the unit to choose for early-warning systems for adults and children with health problems. The best system is a digital display with a color-coded bar graph to eliminate guesswork out of sensor readings.
Below are some general guidelines on how to install a carbon monoxide detector to give you an idea of what's involved. When you purchase your detector, however, follow the manufacturer's directions on installation and maintenance.
1. General Guidelines At least one CO detector should be installed in every home. Even homes with no permanently installed fuel-burning appliances should have CO detectors because CO poisonings can originate from a neighbor’s faulty appliance.
Battery-operated carbon monoxide detectors need alkaline or lithium batteries, which are more reliable. If you have plug-in AC-operated alarm, make sure you don't plug it into a receptacle controlled by an on-off switch; you want the detector to work at all times.
For family protection, install carbon monoxide (CO) alarms outside of bedrooms. Detectors should be at least 10 feet from fuel-burning appliances, away from household chemicals or aerosols. Detectors should not be located in dead-air spaces such as crawl spaces, room corners, peaks of vaulted ceilings, or behind curtains; CO might not reach these areas. Also, detectors should not be near areas of high air turnover, such as ceiling fans or air vents, which could dilute the vapor. Never install a detector in areas subject to wide temperature or humidity swings, such as the attic, garage, or bathroom.
The height you install the detector, whether near the ceiling or floor, will not matter. Carbon monoxide very quickly homogenizes with household air, so the detector will sense it quickly at any level.
I guess you have to be careful in a tent especially. I never had a problem with my waeco 3 way when i had one in the tent. I ran it on gas in the tent but always kept it near the front in the porch. I now use a camper van and the fridge runs on 12volt = waeco cf25 cool/freeze.
It's interesting because when i googled carbon monoxide (CO) alarms it was hard to find something definitive on the subject, as there was a difference of opinions on different sites, i found nothing to do with tents though, so i guess its a bit hit and miss to the placement but it says in the last part of that info i found,
The height you install the detector, whether near the ceiling or floor, will not matter. Carbon monoxide very quickly homogenizes with household air, so the detector will sense it quickly at any level
So it may not matter where you mount your carbon monoxide (CO) alarm (within reason) just as long as you have one..
------------- DELTA..
aka Paul
“Imagination is everything. It is the preview of life's coming attractions.”
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