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Topic: Advice to build wood hard top on trailer?
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16/7/2011 at 6:38pm
Location: None Entered Outfit: 5M Bell Outwel WL5 Rosas Q Base II
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Hello, I have just got a used Erde 122 (3 x 4 feet x 15 inches high). I would like to build it upward and to do it safely as we are off to Switzerland in a couple of weeks. I want to make a wooden thing to give me extra capacity, but am not really sure where to start. I thought about just constructing a wooden thing and sitting it inside the trailer, but then the water would leak down into the trailer between the wooden insert and the trailer itself. How do other people make theirs?
My wish list is this:
1. I'd like to extend upward to 24/25 inches or perhaps a bit higher (if this is safe?)
2. I'd like to be able to put my roofbox on the Erde, if this is safe to do so.
3. It must be water-tight.
4. I'd like to be able to see and/or access the stuff at the back of the trailer when I open it up and not feel like I'm looking into a deep dark cave.
If anybody can give me tips on how to make such a wooden extension thing, I'd so appreciate it. How or where would you suggest I do a door .... should the door be at the back, or a top-opening one and if the latter, how would this work with a roofbox on it, etc.
If anybody has pics so I can take a good look at what you've done, that would be great. My car is a VW Golf Estate, 1400 cc engine, in case that's a factor in what I build.
Thanks in advance.
Humbird
Post last edited on 16/07/2011 18:59:47
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17/7/2011 at 1:38am
Location: None Entered Outfit: 5M Bell Outwel WL5 Rosas Q Base II
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Hi, thanks so much for the great feedback.
John your comment: "At the back I used aluminium angle and wood so the rear section slides up and out to make loading easier. All is covered with a plywood box cover secured with padlocks. ". I am not sure I know what you mean by this, I can't quite picture what that would be ....? Good tip on using the sealant between the wood and metal, I think this is what I'll do too.
Naebother: with regard to fitting it on top of the trailer, I'd be a bit uneasy ... I'd constantly be fearful rightly or wrongly that it would blow right off .... I think I'd prefer the wooden frame to sit snugly all the way down the trailer.
It sounds like if my trailer was wooden that it would be easier to modify and build up. I forgot to mention that I'm a female (small) with a 5 year old boy, so I dont think I'd be able to lift the lid off (solo) of the great trailer that you show in a pic Pwatson, nor would I be able to lean over into it deep enough to get the gear out of it! I need to have a side door or a back door for me to access the depths of the trailer once I have it extended upward. I'll do a search on Trailers and see if any other pics show up that might help me get started.
Another question, I know that it wouldn't be good to keep a tent in the trailer during winter (outside) because of mould/damp .... but would camp chairs, canvas beds be ok or would they get mouldy too?
As for travelling with the weight ... I was thinking of keeping the tabletop fridge and tent (25kilos) in the boot, and keeping the poles (25 kilos) and kitchen/cooking equipment, chairs, tables, etc in the trailer itself. And thinking of keeping the roofbox for cloths and duvets. What do you think?
Humbird
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18/7/2011 at 10:24pm
Location: Oxfordshire Outfit: Khyam Ontario 8 XC
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Hi Humbird,
Far Eastern plywood is what the timber merchant recommended, apparently it is the step down from Marine ply which is used to build boats, it is durable yet strong and highly water resistant. (once treated with a varnish)
Firstly, I fixed the corner posts to the trailer with a small riveter but you could achieve the same result with self tapping screws or some 6mm nuts, bolts and washers.
To drill the metal I used HSS (High Speed Steel) drill bits which I picked up from a DIY store.
It took me about 5 hours to do and that was including the drive to the timber merchants with the measurements to get the plywood cut.
I attached the posts to the trailer first, then took the measurements between the inside of the posts to get the cutting size for the merchant.
I then drilled the posts, then drilled a pilot hole into the ply and then screwed them together using 2" woodscrews.
I then used a clear silicon sealant between the bottom of the ply and the top of the trailer to create a water tight seal. I will admit it is a bit awkward to unload as it is quite deep, so I will be modifying one side with a hinged or removable section to get easier access.
Good Luck!
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