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Subject Topic: Mixing 12v LED and Halogen bulbs Post Reply Post New Topic
25/3/2015 at 11:15pm
 Location: Kent
 Outfit: Bailey Senator 5 Carolina
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We have been looking at replacing our 12v halogen bulbs in the caravan for no other reason than they will hopefully allow our battery to last longer on rallies and require less topping up by the solar panel which is likely in poor weather conditions.

As these bulbs are around £14 each ( I was wondering if we could stagger the replacement cycle.

We have in total 8 halogen downlighters plus 4 non-halogen downlighter bulbs. I have better things to spend £112 on at the moment, but could replace 2 of them (the two we mostly use when reading in the caravan etc) now.

Should I change all bulbs to keep the circuit all LED or will it run happily on a mix of Halogen and LED?

Regards

Defender


25/3/2015 at 11:22pm
 Location: Midlands
 Outfit: Mondeo Avondale Gram
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A bulb is a bulb. You can mix and match them as and when you want.

The only time you have to be careful is when there are voltage issues. Like 2x12v bulbs in series from a 24v supply. But in a caravan that wont be an issue.

£14 each sounds rather expensive though.

Make sure they are the correct AC or DC versions.

Some kitchen LED's are 12v but they are usually AC.



26/3/2015 at 6:45am
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You could buy a full set on e bay for £14.

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alpiner


26/3/2015 at 6:55am
 Location: Derbyshire
 Outfit: Elddis accordo Motorhome
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I bought 5 for about what your paying each and they are good quality glass ones.


26/3/2015 at 10:11am
 Location: Gods Own Country
 Outfit: vango Nadina
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have a read of this


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26/3/2015 at 6:30pm
 Location: Kent
 Outfit: Bailey Senator 5 Carolina
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I bought one bulb for 'test' purposes, to compare how bright it is compared with an existing 20w halogen.

It is a 6.5w led 12v but I have no idea whether it is ac or dc rated. How would I tell / can i find out?

I can take the bulb back to the retailer for a full refund if it does not work, I do not like it etc.

It is a well-known electrical high street retailer so I'm reasonably happy that a) its a good quality unit and b) that I can get my money back.

I haven't got the bulb here at the moment, I left it at work but will take a closer look at it tomorrow.

Worrying comments on the other thread though? Has anyone else de-rated their fuse to allow for the massive reduction in current draw for led v halogen? Obviously you could only do this if you went the whole hog and changed all bulbs rather than having an led/halogen mix?

Regards

Defender


26/3/2015 at 9:04pm
 Location: Gods Own Country
 Outfit: vango Nadina
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The derating is fairly simple to work out fuses protect the wiring firstly but I'm always happier to have the fuse blowing earlier if a fault occurs

If you have 12v and you know the wattage you can calculate the Max constant draw...

Say you have 180w of load

180w /12v =15amps


So you would have a 20a fuse as a 15a would blow


40w of draw

40w/12v = 3.33a. So you'd fuse at 5a


Side note: never exceed the manufacturers fuse size





26/3/2015 at 10:04pm
 Location: West country
 Outfit: Mondeo
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Good lamps have a fuse in them. if you reduce the MCB too much, the MCB will trip before the fuse in the lamp blows plunging you into darkness. The MCB should only need to protect the wiring.

LED lamps have a different colour appearance and mixing them in the same room will really make this apparent. The old lamps will look very yellow in comparison. No problem if you only have the led ones on though. This may be acceptable to you, it is subjective.


26/3/2015 at 11:21pm
 Location: Gods Own Country
 Outfit: vango Nadina
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the OP is referring to 12V lamps Navver Whilst ive come across 12v overload trips most vans / campers use the standard blade fuse

some of the cheaper 12 / 240 led bulbs are accidents waiting to happen as i went into on the thread i linked to above hence advising to derate the fuses on the circuits your reducing the load on


26/3/2015 at 11:58pm
 Location: Midlands
 Outfit: Mondeo Avondale Gram
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Ive had a play with some of the ebay cheapies. 501 12v car style bulbs.
I left one running in the garden in an old metal biscuit tin for protection.

After 20hours it was flickering, When i checked it, the plastic base had already got brittle and was crumbling away.

OK normally you would not leave it on for 20 hours, But they would have reached the same temperature after an hour or so.

Just poor quality. They were about 99p each. 20 SMD's in blocks of 4. (4 sides + top)

I had some similar ones that were 5 5050 SMD's (1 on each side and 1 on top)

They are still going 3 weeks later. Approx £1.60 each and a bit brighter.



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12/4/2017 at 5:21pm
 Location: None Entered
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navver has it exactly right. In caravan wiring the 12V circuit fuse is intended protect the wiring, be it too much load or a short circuit (including a fault between live and the chassis). The amount of available current from the battery in the case of a short circuit in the distribution wiring (or its associated devices such as lights) is the same at the fuse board on all circuits. And it's 100s of amps by the way. Replace your caravan filament bulbs with LEDs without worrying.

-------------
Trev


12/4/2017 at 6:16pm
 Location: Derbyshire
 Outfit: Elddis accordo Motorhome
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I bought 5 GU4 spotlamps for about 16 quid from ultraleds.co.uk they are good glass ones and are going strong at 3 years old nearly.


12/4/2017 at 7:21pm
 Location: Northumberland
 Outfit: Knaus Sudwind 550 TK
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Look here too for bulbs....

MINI IN THE BOX

-------------
Damned if I do...

Damned if I don't!!!!


12/4/2017 at 10:04pm
 Location: East Herts
 Outfit: 1992 Elddis Wisp 450CT + X Trail
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Quote: Originally posted by GCMS2012 on 12/4/2017

Look here too for bulbs....

MINI IN THE BOX



The link doesn't seem to be working.

-------------
Best Regards,
Colin



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