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Subject Topic: Fridge performance Post Reply Post New Topic
06/2/2006 at 8:36pm
 Location: Derbyshire
 Outfit: Elddis Crusader Typoon
View degsy 17's Profile View Profile   Reply to degsy 17 Reply   Quote degsy 17 Quote  
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Hi there,

A virgin messager here!

Anyone have any good ideas as to how I get my fridge to chill my food whilst I am in France (usually quite hot). Another frustrating time last year in the Ardeche with the food on the fridge hardly getting past luke warm.

The unit is a 2004 Dometic job in a Crusader typhoon,so it's not like past it's sell by date. I had similar problems for as ling as I coan remember so as I'm going to Italy this year I need to be prepared.

Cheers, in anticipation.

degsy 17

 

 

 

 



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Degsy 17


06/2/2006 at 8:58pm
 Location: Bristol
 Outfit: Lunar Conquest 544 a
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All i can think of is adding a 12volt fan inside the upper fridge vent ( the type that's used on computers ) , to blow the hot air out , i would check with your dealer before doing this incase there are any warranty issues .

atb

Wizard



06/2/2006 at 9:09pm
 Location: Essex
 Outfit: None Entered
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Adding a fan was the advice we were given, after experiencing similar problems in the South of France, along with the obvious of making sure your caravan  door doesn`t get propped open covering up vents etc. However in the end  (as we were changing the van) we bought a new seperate fridge box which worked just fine in the awning and doubles to transport food/drink home from the supermarket.

 

 



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07/2/2006 at 10:37am
 Location: Zoetermeer Holland
 Outfit: Chateau 430 Nice
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In general absorption type of fridges can only cool about 25 Centigrade below ambient.
Several factors will diminish or hamper the performance and some measures are possible to improve performance.

The ventilator is mentioned already.
It must draw out air from the top-grid. It is also possible to mount it in such way that it blows against the cooling ribs behind the fridge upward to maintain the airstream out through the top grid, but this is a bit more difficult DIY to do it properly, compared to simply mounting the ventialtor against the top-grid, blowing outward.

But there are some other point.

First is that you should not switch the fridge to high when it is hot, switch it a bit LOWER, position 2 or maybe 3.
When the heating element of the fridge becomes to hot it will hamper he circulation of the cooling-liquid inside the fridge or even cause a vapour lock, because the ammonia boils out totally, does not condensate anymore, hence the blockage. So donot switch the fridge too high when it is hot, stick to position 3 or 2.

There are several factors that maintain heat behind the fridge, in such way the the cooling ribs will not transfer heat to the air overthere anymore. The general principle is that warm/hot air must be guided outward quickly and not kept inside the fridge-space. Heating up the air behind the fridge diminishes capacity, so guide it out as quickly as possible.

One factor hampering this circulation is that the space behind the fridge is often badly finished, there are tears, wide openings to the neigbouring closet and to the hob etc. This hampers a smooth straight airflow from lower grid to upper grid.
Seal them (e.g. duck-tape on the closet side plus some foam or polystyrene or sealant, or maybe just duck tape), the only effective openings should be to the outside grids. All other openings disturb the air circulation that you need for cooling the cooling ribs of the fridge.

Also the outside grids are always protected on the inside against bugs, insects by mosquito mesh. This mesh becomes dirty due to the air circulation and simply by road dirt when travelling.
Cleaning improves the capacity for air circulation. Many people in Holland totally remove the mesh (or make it removable by application of velcro and just remove it during hot weather). When the space behind the fridge is properly sealed, the insects won't bother you, but the air circulation is strongly enhanced. I'veard that the mesh may diminish circulation by some 30% (!), all loss of cooling capacity.

Another measure to enhance circulation is to mount a guiding plate near the top-grid, leaning/guiding the air towards that grid. This also creates 'clean' circulation, without disturbance. If mounted on a certain spot it may even create a venturi effect, in fact speeding up the air-current. The Chateau-caravans use this principle and according to some very active Dutch vanners this is very effective.

Finally of course you can still use the ventilator.


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WL



08/2/2006 at 12:00am
 Location: NE England (Newcastle-upon-Tyne)
 Outfit: Grand Cherokee (LPG) + Hobby 540UL
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Try this by Dometic, or of course you can use computer fan(s) much cheaper as someone suggested. The fact Dometic do this as an extra must alleviate concerns over warranty etc


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11/2/2006 at 7:57pm
 Location: Derbyshire
 Outfit: Elddis Crusader Typoon
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Cheers, the info is most welcome along with a better understanding of the "physics".

By the way we winter caravan too - several trips since october but something draws us to warmer climes & al fresco living.

 



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Degsy 17


13/2/2006 at 8:54am
 Location: Zoetermeer Holland
 Outfit: Chateau 430 Nice
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Vanning in winter can be great. (as long as you don't forget wintercovers for the fridge grids and to insulate the sensitive parts of the waterpiping).
A few weeks ago all snowy hills, beautiful sight!
Dog just got out of his mind. Jumping from the caravan into a layer of 15 cms snow!

Summer forthcoming, preferably before main season, direction France, Pré-Alpes probably, probably via the Swarchwald in Germany, than via the Jura. Also much warmer.
Other possibility is to combine Pré-Alpes and Vercors.

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WL




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