You could always make one!, Maplins have all the parts. A standard mono jack plug to fit, a 10k thermistor and a length of twin core 2amp flex is all that is required, about £1.50 worth.
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Hi Garry
Did you ever sort the problem? I ask because we seem to have the same. It's our first caravan and we don't know much about it, but the heating definitely switches off and won't switch back on again until it's cold. But when it's on, the inside of the wardrobe is really very hot, so it all makes sense if the thermostat is there.
We would be very interested in fitting a remote thermostat, so instructions (newbie instructions I mean!) would be most appreciated.
And to Gary of Arc Systems - if you're reading this we're also in Nottingham, kettle's on if you're passing and can help>>>>>>
Thanks.
I have this very same problem with my Elddis and have had thoughts on sorting it out with the 10K thermistor for a while now (as suggested by arc systems). The only problem was that I could never find a 10K thermistor on the Maplin website!
Anyhow I have just had a dig around on the net and managed to track down the parts at http://www.rapidelectronics.co.uk at a total cost of £7.42 including VAT and postage. The parts are as follows:-
10K NTC thermistor (61-0515) Low profile sensor case (30-3226) 3.5mm Jack (20-0105).( I am guessing this will be the right size).
The low profile sensor case is the most expensive item (apart from 4 quid P&P) but it should make the modification look quite tidy and provide physical protection to the thermistor.
I must stress that I haven't tried the modification out yet so cannot recommend this as a positive fix yet!!
However I will report back here in a couple of months once I can confirm all is well with the modification using these parts. In the meantime if anyone else gets this tried out before me I am sure many of us would be interested in some feedback.
If anyone still want to make one you don't need a holder, just make the lead long enough to reach from the back of the fire to the front where the gas temp sensor is and tie wrap the thermistor to the sensor. This is the one I made for Paul-B and it's 2ft long.
Blimey how long did it take you to find this post? it started over six years ago!!
Does prove though I've been supplying them longer than Truma by at least 2 years
Not sure I'm happy to see the DIY instructions resurfacing though? now I make them up and sell them by the score!
Not really, I don't mind at all for personal use if you save yourself some money.
I will say though it matters which choice of thermistor, and then 'how' it's all put together or they still don't work properly, that's why mine work perfectly and copies selling at dealers for more than twice the price... don't!!
If then you want one of mine then I'm happy to supply, please contact me direct for details
I think you'll find that the problem with your heating cutting out prematurely is because the thermostat is too close to the heater and therefore thinking that the van is at room temperature. My heater is built in under the wardrobe and the thermostat which has the built in sensor, is on the wardrobe wall which gets nice and hot while the rest of the van is still cold. You have to get the external sensor mounted somewhere well away from the heat source. The mono jack is 3.5mm.
Mine is Trumas own one but I don't have access to it at the moment to stick an Avo across it to check the resistance...sorry.
It is a 10K NTC thermistor, the point I was making was 'which' 10K NTC thermistor, there are many.
Albeit the CPC one should do the job, there are other issues in the assembly to consider if you want it to work perfectly?
I'm sure your Truma remote stat still does not work perfectly no matter where it's fitted, much better I'm sure, but not quite keeping that perfectly even temperature perhaps?!
Mind you, all should check under the kitchen cabinet?
There are often large gaps where the cabinet fits over the wheel arch, block off the one on the fridge side to prevent heavy draughts coming into the van from behind the fridge!
This improves the heating no end and your fridge will do a better job of keeping the beer cold next summer
I meant to fit a remote sensor after last year away in winter! I am here again this winter in the hills of scotland and at minus 8 need the heater to work!
I have located the grey control box attached to the back of the heater (S3002P with the blow air fitted.) When I opened the grey box I could see the socket the 3.5mm jack would plug into,I had thought there would have been a plug in it already that would be linking the small thermistor behind the control dial to it?
If I make a thermostat up and plug it in does this over ride the current one built into the wall control switch or is there a link wire that I need to break?
If there is a link wire that has to be cut or a jumper could it be dropped out now before I fit a thermostat then the hearter would run constant? :~)
It's exactly the same socket used to plug headphones into radio's so in this case, plugging in the remote automatically disconnects the original in the control switch. So no link to cut or remove, but it's a tight fit through the box, you must make sure it's fully plugged in.
I would also repeat, fit the new sensor to the gas fires cigar shaped copper sensor on the front of the fire, no benefit to be gained fitting it anywhere else.