Its a 20 minute job.
The only tricky(ish) part is you will need to cut a length of round bar the same diameter as the attachment bolts and the same length as the draw tube. I used a piece of wooden dowelling I had lying around.
1) Undo the 2 bolts securing the hitch and remove.
2) Undo and remove the bolt at the back of the draw tube, you can usually reach it from underneath the A frame
3) Pull the old damper out and feed the new one in
4) Replace the back bolt and tighten
5) Push the end of the damper until the holes lines up and push in your "dowel"
6) Replace the hitch and push the front bolt in, then push the rear bolt in, it will push your dowel out
7) Tighten all bolts
8) Make a brew, sit down and admire your work
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The front of the damper is held by the rearmost hitch bolt, the back of the damper is held by the bolt at the back of the draw tube its usually vertical
To get the right damper you need the ETI number form the hitch head, remove the frame cover and stamped on the top of the A frame you should find a number such as ETI 811011 that is the identifier for the damper
20 min job? Erm.. not it the nuts are seized ;-) Make sure you have some WD40 to hand. You'll also need a Torx 55 socket for the 2 front bolts, and 19mm socket and spanner for the rear bolt. Make sure you don't loose any of the shims, tubes and washers. Time taken about 2 hours
Doing my alko 161s on a 2004 stabiliser just now. Note the front bolt is an 8mm hex not 10mm. It’s pretty tight and needs 86nm torque. I am using 1/2 inch impact drivers.
Old damper has come out but struggling to get new one in, it gets jammed in the tube. Is there any trick to this or could it be dirt/hardened grease that needs cleaning out???