Thanks for the replies there Andrew, I reckon my problem must be as you've described. If only I knew how to use my multimeter. I reckon I'll get an isolator fitted.
You can test if there is a current drain by disconnecting a battery lead, then dab it on na off the terrminal. A small spark means there is a current drain.
If you measured the battery voltage soon after returning from a trip, the battery would have been charged by the car system. This charges at a higher voltage which could easily be 14.5volts. I believe some modern cars have even higher voltages. For a true reading, you need to leave the battery off charge for a few hours before measuring the voltage or it will read high.
You can get quick release battery connectors. These will enable you to easily remove the battery without tools and can be used instead of a battery isolator.
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Quote: Originally posted by steve2020 on 11/12/2009To work out how much current is being draw do you disconnect the battery to see the exact reading then reconnect and apply the multimeter then subtract the new reading from the disconnected battery reading?
Open the battery box and remove one of the leads from your battery. Set the multimeter to a current range and connect its probes between the lead you removed and the battery terminal you removed it from. Now simply read the current from the multimeter.
Cheers Andrew
Best of luck Andrew
Cheers Andrew I'll do this next time I'm at the storage compound
Willl things in the van still draw from the battery with the control panel switched off? I noticed ours light up & go straight off again when I went in to check things were OK. The battery ever had enough power in it to light the panel up again. We've got a mover & this new Trailer control system on our van, could either or both of those have a problem? Our last van had a mover & its battery never went down like this one does.
If I put an isolater in myself, could that effect the warranty?
If it is isolated, several months depending upon the exact type of battery. Some of the expensive gel batteries can go a year or more.
Before I got an isolator, I used to remove the battery from the caravan at the end of the season and take it home. I recharged it whenever the mood took me - maybe two or three times over the winter.
If you fit an isolator and a small solar panel, you can just leave it in the caravan and forget it - unless, of course you are as forgetful as I am, in which case you'll forget to open the isolator and the battery will go flat anyway.
Hi guys.. I made myself a rather crude bulb holder to test output and stamina of my battery with rather dire results.
The battery read 14.5v without load and 12.8v with a 22w bulb as load. The bulb drew 1.82 amps at 11.00am. I retested the readings at 1.45pm same day and the voltage under load had dropped to 6.88v and as you can see in the pic the amp draw was down to 1.34..I'm no wizz with electrics or batteries hence me posting on here however I can pretty much draw the conclusion that the battery is well and truly shagged.
I must add that the battery had come off charge approx' 10 mins before connecting the bulb.
Thanks to all for your input..Especially Andrew that taught me how to read current draw..Top man
I can pretty much draw the conclusion that the battery is well and truly shagged. I must add that the battery had come off charge approx' 10 mins before connecting the bulb
sounds like you are correct,before you splash out big bucks ask a garage to do a drop test for you.
------------- the only silly question is the one you do not ask.
It has been off charge for only a couple of minutes. I've connected a 21W 12V lamp across it and get a reading of 13.4V across the battery terminals (should be 12.7V fully charged, so it's not settled yet after charging), as at 2.30pm. So it's game on ................
Quote: Originally posted by AndrewK on 14/12/2009
I am doing pretty much the same test with mine.
It has been off charge for only a couple of minutes. I've connected a 21W 12V lamp across it and get a reading of 13.4V across the battery terminals (should be 12.7V fully charged, so it's not settled yet after charging), as at 2.30pm. So it's game on ................
OK, I have left the bulb connected, so it's drawing approx 1.85 amps or so.
Time volts
2.30pm 13.4V
2.45pm 13.17V
4.00pm 12.96V
I'm using a cheapie Rapitest DMM from B&Q and I'm not sure how accurate it is. I'm waiting for a new set of test probes for my other(more accurate) DMM (broke the end off one). It's looking good at the moment.
At 10.45pm it measured 12.67V - another 12Ah (ish)since the measurement at 4.00pm. I'll let it continue until it has dropped below 12V then I'll have a fair indication of what it's capacity actually is.
At 10.30am this morning it measured 12.35V, which if accurate means that it's still got around 60% of maximum charge. The 21W lamp has been connected for 20 hours now, so we've had approx 36Ah, which suggests that the total battery capacity is about 90Ah - not bad for a battery that is over 4 years old.