My advice would be to make sure the bolts are clean and dry before being fitted and torqued to the correct setting. Check them again before a journey and return journey. If you have lost the same wheel twice I may consider there may be an issue with the hub threads and have them checked and replaced if required.
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Quote: Originally posted by DaveCoaches on 20/5/2013
It's not just a caravan issue, car manufacturers also recommend checking your wheel nuts every 6000 miles when alloys are fitted.
Alloys on cars do have a tendency to slacken off after they have been disturbed, I am sure caravans are no better or worse.
6000 miles is a hell of a lot less often than every trip.
It cannot be an issue that can be addressed by the caravan manufacturers, this is down to the manufacturers of the hubs and wheels
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One thought with the new bolts, is that one shot lubricant is used. To correctly check the torque on a nut, you undo it and retighten. do you then need to carry the lubricant around for use when torque checking?
Quote: Originally posted by Battie on 20/5/2013
The bolts are Delta protekt Vh301gz and are grey as apposed to the shiny cadmium plated bolts you already have
Thanks for that. I have not lost two wheels, one is enough!!!! My question is that Bailey are recommending changing wheels & hubs on both sides if changing to using the new bolts which appears a bit extreme.
. If you put lubricant on a bolt the torque setting alters.
For example an 8.8 tensile strength bolt of m12 x 1.75 ( nominal size and thread pitch) will have a dry torque setting of 88nm, a lubed of the same spec would be 66.
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Quote: Originally posted by Battie on 20/5/2013
. If you put lubricant on a bolt the torque setting alters.
For example an 8.8 tensile strength bolt of m12 x 1.75 ( nominal size and thread pitch) will have a dry torque setting of 88nm, a lubed of the same spec would be 66.
Sorry, I'm not sure what you mean there. Is it better for the bolts to be lubed or not.
I check my bolts aren't loose with a torque wrench but don't slacken them of first. As long as the wrench clicks without tightening the bolt I am happy they haven't worked loose. They never had needed any tightening but after losing a wheel it is part of my pre-journey peace of mind.
(my wheel came off after it wasn't torqued up post service - nothing to do with working itself loose)
Quote: Originally posted by Zafiral on 20/5/2013
Wheels are not balanced.
Get them balanced then, Bailey's tyres have often been found to be in excess of 100 grams and some over 200 grams out!!
With the vibration that sort of imbalance can cause is any wonder a wheel comes off?!
I personally would not bother fitting super duper bolts or use special 'one shot lube' whatever that is? just make sure mating surfaces are clean and that includes the tapers the bolts purchase on.
Regards lubed or dry, torque applied is to achieve a clamping pressure between wheel and hub. As stated then, tightening dry bolts create more friction than lubed ones so require more torque than lubed bolts to achieve the required clamping pressure
Quote: Originally posted by Battie on 20/5/2013. If you put lubricant on a bolt the torque setting alters.
For example an 8.8 tensile strength bolt of m12 x 1.75 ( nominal size and thread pitch) will have a dry torque setting of 88nm, a lubed of the same spec would be 66.
Sorry, I'm not sure what you mean there. Is it better for the bolts to be lubed or not.
dry and clean IMO, with a small amount of copper grease on the mating surface to stop it seizing on in the future.
lubed it takes less torque to avoid damage to the threads, so there's less "tightness" to loose if that makes sense.
Sorry I misunderstood. With the WSL bolts you tighten the bolts to the same 110 torque as the standard bolts, but they exhibit a far higher clamping force.
My decision is made, I am sticking with Alloys, using the WSL bolts & getting a new torque wrench as my current one I have not been returning to zero setting after each use so may not be as completely accurate as it could be.