Message Forums

Quote: Originally posted by splutterycar on 20/7/2007

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Its actually surprising how many workstops arent level, we put the spirit level on the floor due to this. I remember we got caught out like this a while ago. At least if you level from the floor, you know the shower will drain ok.

Try putting a level on the floor and then the worktop, will be interesting to see who's differ.

 

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Too true.

I put the spirit level on the worktop above the fridge.  On the basis that the manufacturer at least managed to get the fridge square to its cabinet, that is the most critical appliance for requiring to be level.

Bertie.

Quote: Originally posted by topefisher on 19/7/2007

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Quote: Originally posted by oxter on 19/7/2007

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You could also drop a plumb line from the top of the door frame and when it points to the centre of the frame, not inside, not outside - you're bang on level.

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Why would you want to level your door frame?

There also used to be a combined wheel clamp that acted as a type of jack as well.

Ingenious piece of engineering, where you locked it onto your wheel and just wound it up to the right height.

Are these still available?

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I carry a small spirit level, a small trolley jack & a number of pieces of timber about 10 inches or so long & of varying thickness. When we get on pitch we check front to rear leel using the spirit level on a piece of side trim on the van & th jockey wheel to level front to rear.

Then put the level on a piece of trim on the ront or rear to check side to side, jack the low side up & slip a piece of timber under the low tyre. I find a piee of 3x2 normally does it sometimes I need a piece of ply on top of it depending on the level of the pitch. Having the timber ten inches to a foot long it gives good support to the weight of the van, there's more ground contact than the base of the tyre. Don't put any corner steady down until your unit is level if you use the jack, you'll be jacking against the corner steady.

People critiscise my jack & timber approach but I've had several punctures on route & you'll find you need to draw the flat tyre up on to a piece of your wood before you can get your jack under the axle of the van.

My mate reckons he'd rather carry more lager than my jack but I've yet to work out a way of using a an of lager to level my van or change a wheel.

BB   

I have one of those levelling devices where you wind a handle and it levels the caravan, this was great on our last van, but now have moved to a twin axle, can it be used on one wheel???????????/

 when we were away at Easter i levelled our van by putting the scissor jack under the axel plate and lifted it about 2 inches to get it level and just left it on the jack with the brakes on and the steadies down it worked fine it didn't move over the 5 days we were away. i wouldn't recommend doing this in every situation but if the van is only 1-2 inches out across the axel and the pitch is not sloping  it seems an easy solution perhaps a bit too easy

Quote: Originally posted by La-la on 27/5/2011

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We just don't care that much really ! If it's fairly level that does us, not the end of the world - wouldn't dream of faffing about with a spirit level, life's too short. 

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Quote: Originally posted by D S B on 27/5/2011

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To those who have a motor mover.  How do you get on with levelling the van.  You all seem to say it is easy.  When I use the MM to level the van, it seems to go every way other than the way i want.  As soon as it starts going up the ramp, the front end of the van tends to swing one way or another.  Other than re-hitching the van up to the car, any other ideas?

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To those who have a motor mover. How do you get on with levelling the van. You all seem to say it is easy. When I use the MM to level the van, it seems to go every way other than the way i want. As soon as it starts going up the ramp, the front end of the van tends to swing one way or another. Other than re-hitching the van up to the car, any other ideas?

As the van starts to move onto the ramp the wheel going up the ramp meets the resistance of the ramp. The upshot is that the free wheel moves round (towards the ramped side) whilst the ramped wheel struggles to move and the van starts trying to turn a circle. 

Used to annoy me so this is what I do.....(looking at the van from the front) and say the wheel on the left (offside) (as I look at) is to be ramped I compensate for the free wheel turning the van left (as I look at it) by moving the van on to the ramp using the right turn button (as I look at the van) and that counteracts the other free wheel. As the van starts to move up the ramp I quickly hit the forward button. This ensures that my van moves forward. Works for me anyway

I tend to reverse on to the pitch, unhitch and then level using the mover. My hitch lock does not release if the handbrake is on. It needs to be able to roll slightly forward to come off the tow ball. Similar problem if the van is on a ramp. So, its just easier to unhitch and then level witha ramp. My spirit level for front to back is on the fridge as (as was said earlier) that is the crucial piece of gear for being level.

When levelling side to side we are slightly higher on the nearside as that helps with drainage. Well, the spirit level bubble is on the line nearest the door. We find that give us the best drainage.

Phil

Quote: Originally posted by cwdc56768 on 27/5/2011

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To those who have a motor mover. How do you get on with levelling the van. You all seem to say it is easy. When I use the MM to level the van, it seems to go every way other than the way i want. As soon as it starts going up the ramp, the front end of the van tends to swing one way or another. Other than re-hitching the van up to the car, any other ideas?

As the van starts to move onto the ramp the wheel going up the ramp meets the resistance of the ramp. The upshot is that the free wheel moves round (towards the ramped side) whilst the ramped wheel struggles to move and the van starts trying to turn a circle. 

Used to annoy me so this is what I do.....(looking at the van from the front) and say the wheel on the left (offside) (as I look at) is to be ramped I compensate for the free wheel turning the van left (as I look at it) by moving the van on to the ramp using the right turn button (as I look at the van) and that counteracts the other free wheel. As the van starts to move up the ramp I quickly hit the forward button. This ensures that my van moves forward. Works for me anyway

I tend to reverse on to the pitch, unhitch and then level using the mover. My hitch lock does not release if the handbrake is on. It needs to be able to roll slightly forward to come off the tow ball. Similar problem if the van is on a ramp. So, its just easier to unhitch and then level witha ramp. My spirit level for front to back is on the fridge as (as was said earlier) that is the crucial piece of gear for being level.

When levelling side to side we are slightly higher on the nearside as that helps with drainage. Well, the spirit level bubble is on the line nearest the door. We find that give us the best drainage.

Phil

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I understand what you mean, Phil - thanks for that.  I usually end up by doing something similar.  Unfortunately I'n not well practised at this particular art as I usually manage to get a flat pitch, so it doesn't happen very often

Agree entirely about the fridge being the place for the spirit level, but I do tend to have a fairly good eye for these things and even without a spirit level, I'm never too far out.