'IMHO the gas shuts off automatically when the flame goes.....'
When you switch the heater on you have to hold the knob down until the flame detector has reached its temperature ( at least thats what I assume is happening).
Quote: Originally posted by brianconwy on 15/12/2008
'IMHO the gas shuts off automatically when the flame goes.....'
When you switch the heater on you have to hold the knob down until the flame detector has reached its temperature ( at least thats what I assume is happening).
When youswitch the heater on you have to hold the switch down to allowthe thermocouple to heat up to high enough temperature that it can generate enough energy to prevent the gas valve from closing. If the flame goes out, the thermocouple cools down and the gas valve shuts off the supply of gas to the heater.
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It must be possable to retro fit a timer if you wanted to, our van is fitted with a 7 day unit as used in domestic systems, ours is an Alde system, but i would have thought they could be used. may cost a packet though.
We set ours low overnight to increase just before we get out of bed, as there is no fan there is no noise.
If the burner goes out it's not burning at all, therefore it cannot produce carbon monoxide which is a product of partial combustion, not no combustion at all !!
When you hold the knob down to ;light the burner, you are holding the gas safety valve in contact with an electro-magnet. The thermocouple heats up and produces about 50mv of electricity which is enough to energise the magnet, this then grabs the valve and holds it open when you let go.
If the flame goes out the magnet should become de-energised within 60 seconds, (usually 30-40secs), the magnet lets go and the valve shuts with a 'cluck' that you often hear after switching off.
As far as mains 240v heating goes, theres no reason why a plug in type timer cannot be used. You will need to cut the 240v supply to the heater to connect in a three pin socket for the timer, a three pin plug then goes on the fire side of the mains cable.
We have a Swift Conqueror with blown air heating. I can see no problem fitting a timer to control the heating but I'm not sure that it is worth while. We turn the fan off at night and turn the thermostat to a ow setting so it never gets really cold in the caravan. Without the fan the shower room can feel cold so we used to leave the door open at night, (I've now fitted a convector heater in the shower room so it is nice and warm).
------------- We camped for years. In 2019 we bought an Elddis Avante 454. We like it as it is short (6.9m) and fits in our driveway and has a fixed bed.
We had 127 nights away in the caravan in 2023.
Hi all we have a bailey pegasus ancona 2012 and when using the electric blow air system on full its hardly blowing out of the fire. Also its not getting very hot and seems to be taking ages to warm up. Does anyone know why this is please?
We now have an Elddis with Whale blown air heating. At this time of year when we arrive at a site I put the gas and electric on as electric alone takes far too long to heat up from cold.
Once it is warm I can run on either gas or electric.
------------- We camped for years. In 2019 we bought an Elddis Avante 454. We like it as it is short (6.9m) and fits in our driveway and has a fixed bed.
We had 127 nights away in the caravan in 2023.
We have always found caravan heating somewhat slow to take effect so we carry a normal fan heater. Only needs to run on 1kw setting and the van is warm in seconds.
Quote: Originally posted by Harperk on 13/10/2024
Hi all we have a bailey pegasus ancona 2012 and when using the electric blow air system on full its hardly blowing out of the fire. Also its not getting very hot and seems to be taking ages to warm up. Does anyone know why this is please?
Truma blow0air heating is primary a gas fire with an additional electric one bolted on in the later design. Therefore on electric it can struggle, even if it is working perfectly. That is another thing, it has a habit of burning out relays etc so often isn't performing at it's maximum anyway. As above, it's best to have both gas and electric on full at the start to get the heat output up to speed, you may then be able to leave on electric providing the outside temperature isn't too cold for it to cope. Another tip is to leave the fan off intil it's giving out good amount of heat.
Depending on layout, there is likely to be ducting that is routed underneath the floor, (in some cases a substantial amount), that wouild benefit from additional insulation to your reduce heat loss. I used a double layer of foil bubble-wrap strip like this.
Dave.
------------- Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day,
Teach a man to fish and you can get rid of him for a whole weekend.