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WOW!  Its usually us that have things going wrong for us.  Hope you get it sorted soon.

Good morning Tim,

Having read the post on here and the other forums and from the description given, it would appear that you have not located the key into the head of the locking bolt correctly. 

If the bolt was cross threaded then it would have been more difficult to turn.  Again, if there was any sort of alignment problem, you wouldn't have been able to turn the key at all. I cant understand why it initially freely rotates, but then requires brute force to remove. 

Did you jack the wheel up slightly prior to trying to remove the lock, as per our recommendation, as this also eases the removal/fitment process.

My advice here would be to ensure you have correctly inserted the key into the head of the locking bolt. If you push the key as far into the lock as possible and turn it to ensure it lines up with the special shaped head, the key should drop into the slot and stop turning. This should allow you, with the use of the wheel brace, to remove the locking bolt.

During our visit two weeks ago, we did check the AL-KO Secure Wheel Lock as well, as your wife mentioned that you were experiencing some stiffness when turning the key in the barrel lock.  Upon examination we found no problems with the wheel lock itself, the threads on the locking bolt and receiver were in good condition and we were able to remove it and re-fit with no problems.

The barrel lock components were a little stiff, but our advice to your wife on this issue, was to maintain the barrel lock with a spray of WD40 every so often to ensure the components remain free from ingress of grime etc.

Just to add, the additional parts that I sent you would not improve the locks operation, the black cover which you should have received with the yellow plugs, prevent marking to the alloy wheel.  The black plugs are to fit into the barrel lock when the lock is in place to prevent water and dirt getting into the lock components when the caravan is standing at home or on site.

I hope this answers your questions, but feel free to give me a call.

Kind regards,

Paul Jones

Marketing Manager

AL-KO Kober Limited

Tim,

In your specific situation, I would wholly recommend that when you return home and park the van back on the drive, prior to uncoupling the tow vehicle, chock the opposite wheel and then jack the wheel up enough to allow it to rotate enough to line up the receiver.  When the lock is fitted let the wheel back down.

When you come to move the caravan the next time, couple up the towing vehicle, chock the opposite wheel and jack the van up enough to allow the wheel to be clear of the ground. This will ensure that the lock removal process is as easy as possible and take the minimum of time.

I know this may seem a little long winded, but it is the recommended way to fit and remove the locks with the least amount of effort required.

With regards to the barrel lock, I find the best course of action is to push the key fully into the key slot until it wont go in any further and apply a light pressure as you turn the key.  This should hold the barrel firm enough to allow you to turn the key and remove the complete lock assembly.

If you need anything else, please get in contact.

Paul

I to have problems with the new wheel lock. I decided to buy it because of it's diamond standard and the fact that I can a discount on my insurance. The lock is fitted to a Swift Challenger 560 (2009) model.

I was supplied with a lock bearing number 15. My personal opinion after fitting it is the fact that it doesn't fit but remains proud of the face of the wheel by at least 1cm. This would allow an object to be placed behind such as a bar. In my opinion the centre barrel is too long.When the lock is offered to a hole in the wheel without the back plate it sits flat flush and tight. However when fitted I can get my fingers behind it.

I have tried contacting Al-Ko but they don't reply to my calls. My concerns are that if it doesn't fit as intended for what ever reason this could invalidate my insurance.

 I contacted the dealer who supplied the lock and they insist that it is the correct one but stated that other customers had complained of how slack it is when fitted with lots of movement.

This sounds like you have the wrong red bit (paper weight)

There is different red plates for different alloy wheels have a look on alko's web site.

Thats what I thought but according to Highbridge caravans it's definately the right one. Unfortunatly on the Al-Ko site they only give the long number and don't give the disc number so until Al-Ko decide to get back I'm a bit stumped.

Phil

Quote: Originally posted by AL-KO Kober Limited on 03/6/2009

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Tim,

In your specific situation, I would wholly recommend that when you return home and park the van back on the drive, prior to uncoupling the tow vehicle, chock the opposite wheel and then jack the wheel up enough to allow it to rotate enough to line up the receiver.  When the lock is fitted let the wheel back down.

When you come to move the caravan the next time, couple up the towing vehicle, chock the opposite wheel and jack the van up enough to allow the wheel to be clear of the ground. This will ensure that the lock removal process is as easy as possible and take the minimum of time.

I know this may seem a little long winded, but it is the recommended way to fit and remove the locks with the least amount of effort required.

With regards to the barrel lock, I find the best course of action is to push the key fully into the key slot until it wont go in any further and apply a light pressure as you turn the key.  This should hold the barrel firm enough to allow you to turn the key and remove the complete lock assembly.

If you need anything else, please get in contact.

Paul

 

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Hello Paul

How nice to see a manufacturer assisting customers on the UKCS forum. After reading your advise to Tim reference the fitting of his Al-Ko lock, do I understand it's OK to fit the Al-Ko lock to the wheel while it's jacked off the ground & lined up with the receiver? We've always jacked ours up, lined up the receiver & then lowered the van to the ground, allowed the wheel to return to it's rested position & hoped the receiver is still in line. 9 times out of 10 we have to jack it back up again but, I always felt the lock & receiver would be under stress if the lock was fitted while the wheel was off the ground as the wheel would be prevented from returning to it's natural position as the suspension comes under load which causes the wheel to rotate slightly due to the caravan being captive on the hitch or, in our case, on the hitch post. From what you're saying to Tim, I'm wrong & could benefit from faster locking because the wheel would line up easier on the jack.

Can you tell me what the black & yellow plugs are to keep rain out while fitted to the van on the drive please, I could do with some of those.

Thanks for replying on here.

BB

Quote: Originally posted by phil48 on 26/6/2009

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I to have problems with the new wheel lock. I decided to buy it because of it's diamond standard and the fact that I can a discount on my insurance. The lock is fitted to a Swift Challenger 560 (2009) model.

I was supplied with a lock bearing number 15. My personal opinion after fitting it is the fact that it doesn't fit but remains proud of the face of the wheel by at least 1cm. This would allow an object to be placed behind such as a bar. In my opinion the centre barrel is too long.When the lock is offered to a hole in the wheel without the back plate it sits flat flush and tight. However when fitted I can get my fingers behind it.

I have tried contacting Al-Ko but they don't reply to my calls. My concerns are that if it doesn't fit as intended for what ever reason this could invalidate my insurance.

 I contacted the dealer who supplied the lock and they insist that it is the correct one but stated that other customers had complained of how slack it is when fitted with lots of movement.

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Sounds like you need to return your lock & get the correct lozenge Phil. There's certainly no movement on ours when it's fitted. Still, Paul is on this thread from Al-Ko & let's hope he can help you.

BB

Phil 28 if you get the red lozenge and try it up against the spokes of the wheel and see if it fits securely in the gaps. with out the bolts just the lozenge on it own

If it doesn't it is the wrong one 

Hi Phil

I'm the original poster so I've had a few problems with my Alko wheel lock.

A suggestion if you want a quick reply from Alko is to go on the caravan talk website.  Alko have a dedicated sub-section on there in the technical section and Paul Jones is usually very prompt at replying to enquiries posted there.

Regarding fit you locks sounds to definitely the wrong one for your wheel.  When mine's fitted I couldn't get a piece of paper between the wheel and the "red lozenge".  That's why Alko have just produced a black plastic cover to go between the wheel and red loz to stop it marking the wheel.

I hope you get it sorted

Best wishes

Tim

Tim thanks for that I'll give it a try. I have just had an email from an Alan Saunders at ALKO questioning if I really have a 14" wheel. and also they shouldn't fit type to the rim but should have a certain amount of movement. I just don't think you should be able to get a crow bar in between the lozenge and the wheel.

There is no doubt they are 14" rims I've checked enough wheels and tyres in my former job. I just think that it is poorly engineered.

Regards

Phil