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Subject Topic: Wheel bolts Grease
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18/1/2010 at 8:19pm
 Location: Chester le Street
 Outfit: Volkswagen CC & Carnaby Cascade
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Just been putting some locking wheel bolts on my caravan alloy wheels and on trying to remove one of the existing bolts on all four wheels they were a bit stiff to remove (a lot stiff slightly seized).
So when I placed the locking bolt on I smeared a small amount of grease on the threads so removal will be a tad easier as many years ago I destroyed a locking wheel bolt when it seized on, and what a mare to remove I tell ya.
I have read mixed reports about putting a small amount of grease on wheel bolts, and would like to know you opinions !
Chris..............



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FINE PRINT: I reserve the right to be wrong. Should you prove me wrong, I reserve the right to change my mind.


18/1/2010 at 8:34pm
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Hi

As I understand it wheel bolts should be torqued up with clean dry threads.

But I've experienced apparent seizing where alloy wheels are concerned except when I was the last person to tighten them. I do use a torque wrench at home.

Thwack


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18/1/2010 at 8:48pm
 Location: Argyll Scotland
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It is my understanding that if you are going to use a grease on wheel nuts, it should be Copper Ease.

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Lobey.


18/1/2010 at 9:21pm
 Location: Yeadon Leeds!
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always used just a tiny smear of copper grease on the seating face, not the threads, on all my cars, caravans, motorbikes, and trailers, not had a problem yet.


19/1/2010 at 7:44am
 Location: Woolacombe
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Quote: Originally posted by Thwack on 18/1/2010


Hi

As I understand it wheel bolts should be torqued up with clean dry threads.


Thwack


Exactly right...

 



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19/1/2010 at 8:13am
 Location: Hampshire
 Outfit: Hymer Nova S
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The reason why you should not put grease on our caravan wheel bolts is that AL-KO dont quote you the correct torque up figure for "lubricated" bolts only for "dry" bolts.
Lubricating the bolts results in a much greater tension being developed in the torqued up bolt than is the case where they are torqued up dry, to the same torque.

These wheel bolts are already designed to be at very high stress levels and lubricating them can increase that stress by up to 20%. This higher stress level coupled with the fluctuating rolling induced loading puts them in danger of fracturing in the thread roots. This is an area where I have quite a lot of design experience. Whilst I wish they did quote the right wet toque up value as it normally yields greater consistency, they dont. To use the specified torque up with a lubricated bolt is being extremely ill informed.


19/1/2010 at 10:14am
 Location: Lancashire
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no mention of lubrication here but as retired motor engineer i can say it is not a good idea to add grease of any kind to a wheel bolt because it will lose tension and grip.see

www.al-ko.co.uk

Caravan Chassis HandBook



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the only silly question is the one you do not ask.


19/1/2010 at 11:58pm
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learn something every day!


20/1/2010 at 8:25am
 Location: rotherham
 Outfit: Bailey unicorn cartenaga volvo xc90
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you can always use graphite


20/1/2010 at 8:35am
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I would'nt lubricate wheel studs/bolts. Either tighten with a torque wrench of just do up firmly with a wheel brace if you understand how tight they need to be. Keep a 2 foot long breaker bar to crack'em undone.


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20/1/2010 at 9:24am
 Location: Hampshire
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Quote: Originally posted by trez321 on 20/1/2010you can always use graphite

Have you checked that one out with Al-Ko; I dont think so?

It most definitely is not what I would recommend. It will lead to over stressing the bolt and is about as good an agent to allow the backing off of the bolt as I could think of*. Not a good recommendation at all.

Edit: * with the possible exception of a PTFE spray?

Post last edited on 20/01/2010 09:39:36


20/1/2010 at 1:58pm
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I wouldn't even consider PTFE spray; it still has lubricating qualities that will change the correct strength of the torque compared to a dry bolt.

All wheel bolts have "dry thread" recommended for torquing, so any additive away from that state is contrary to recommendations.

Bertie.



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20/1/2010 at 2:02pm
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JTQU in you first post , spot on couldnt be put better


20/1/2010 at 11:49pm
 Location: Chester le Street
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Hmm, looks like I have done the wrong thing then,
Will have to remove them and clean it off.
At least there is another 4 bolts to hold the wheels on ! LOL !
Thanks all.

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21/1/2010 at 6:31am
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I would say it was a very grey area.

Whilst Alko specify the tightening torque for clean dry bolts, they are referring to new bolts. Once they have been in service and the slightest bit of rust builds up, the nut becomes tighter in the thread and therefore the tightening torque is different.

A small ammount of lubrication will overcome the rust build up. An example of this is that if you take a new nut and bolt, the nut will spin up the bolt easily. If you take the same size nut and bolt that has been outside for a few months, it is a very different story. Imagine how much different it would be if it was repeatedly heated and left to cool and had been outside for a few years as is the case with a caravan. If you also took the same nut and bolt, covered it in grease and left it outside for a few months, you would find the thread resistance on the greased bolt to be far closer to that of the new one than that of the rusty one.

The biggest issue I have come across with alloy wheels is not with the nuts seizing up, but the wheels corroding onto the hubs.



21/1/2010 at 8:26am
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Its not a grey area, its a don't do. Its very important to have the correct torque on a caravan wheel which is why engineers pay a lot of money for calibrated torque wrenches.



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