I think I've dropped a clanger, I fitted an isolator switch to my van today but haven't wired it up fully as yet. The problem is I think I've put it too close to the hook up, My question is this: Is the connection made when the key is out of the isolator (anti clockwise) or is connection made when turned clockwise. If it's the latter then I'm in trouble as I'm not going to be able to hook up to 230v until I move either the switch or the hook up plug. I won't get chance to hook up my multi meter until next weekend hence me posting this question.
Pics of switch with and without key, As you can see I'll be able to connect 230v hook up when the isolator key is removed.
Hi. Not being a sparky, this is only an educated guess. On most isolator switches I've seen, the key has to be in for it to be switched on. This means you can switch it off and remove the key and keep it in your pocket while working on the equipment knowing nobody can switch it on while you are working. I would guess you'll be looking at having to move it.
On all isolator switches I've come across you turn clockwise for on & anticlock for off, but as stated if you can remove the key once its turned on wheres the problem? The plug should fit over it. The isolator switch is to isolate the battery to prevent any drain while the 'van is not being used & should be fitted near the battery. Why did you feel you needed a switch accessable from the outside?
i fitted the same switch as you for the mover if its the same as picture below.just checked mine and its a clockwise turn for ON and the key cannot be removed in the ON position.what you can do is buy a second key and cut off the handle then re-drill and fit a small bar to turn it.i have the same problem if the key was in i could not fit the EHU cable connector.the key must be IN to engage the shut off connection.looking at your picture is is a carbon copy of mine.
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------------- the only silly question is the one you do not ask.
Thanks for all your replies guys Yes Michael this is the same as yours and yes I kind of guessed that it was live when the key was turned clockwise and still engaged within the switch so thanks for confirming it for me, As pjh10 touched on I suppose you take the key out and put it in your pocket whilst working on a circuit feeling safe that nobody can turn it on whilst you have the key.. Oh well I guess I'll have to put a big spacer behind the hook up socket to raise it above the switch, I can't move it down anymore as the key won't turn as it gets stuck on the bottom of the battery locker. In respose to Tentz i find it good to have the switch on the outside of the van when You have as bad a memory as me and forget to turn everything off after packin up.. don't have to re-enter the van climbing over stuff with muddy boots on.
How about turning the switch upside down? If you disconnect wires, remove screws, turn the whole thing by 180deg & reconnect wires, then key would be clear of plug when turned on. It looks as if you did that there might not be room to turn key but I would have thought you could just saw a bit off the key handle & it should clear.
just a thought,with the isolator switch having a long neck,can you not fit tubes under the panel on each bolt.? this way you can pull the neck flush giving more room for the key.still be inclined to reduce the key lugs.
------------- the only silly question is the one you do not ask.
Quote: Originally posted by michael on 01/2/2010
just a thought,with the isolator switch having a long neck,can you not fit tubes under the panel on each bolt.? this way you can pull the neck flush giving more room for the key.still be inclined to reduce the key lugs.
Exactly my thoughts. I did this with my motor mover isolator switch. I used a load of washers and packed them between the switch and the panel so that the switch was flush with panel. That should sort it out.
Quote: Originally posted by michael on 01/2/2010
just a thought,with the isolator switch having a long neck,can you not fit tubes under the panel on each bolt.? this way you can pull the neck flush giving more room for the key.still be inclined to reduce the key lugs.
Exactly my thoughts. I did this with my motor mover isolator switch. I used a load of washers and packed them between the switch and the panel so that the switch was flush with panel. That should sort it out.
thanks be nice if it works for him too.
------------- the only silly question is the one you do not ask.
just a thought,with the isolator switch having a long neck,can you not fit tubes under the panel on each bolt.? this way you can pull the neck flush giving more room for the key.still be inclined to reduce the key lugs.
You're a top man Michael..Why didn't i think of that, That'll be much easier than my idea of raising the hook up socket,,Thanks very much