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Subject Topic: Al-ko tow ball Post Reply Post New Topic
11/3/2010 at 11:10am
 Location: Polesworth Warwickshire
 Outfit: Bailey Unicorn III Valencia (LR Disco)
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Someone recently went into the back of my Disco (a shunt).  Guess what!  No damage to Disco but made a bit of a mess of her brand new shiny car.  Disco checked out by garage, to be on the safe side.  Now I need to replace the tow ball, curtesy of their insurance.  (Always a good thing to do - tow balls being cast iron and can have 'hidden cracks' etc).  I need a A50-X tow ball to fit the Al-Ko AKS 3004 stabiliser/hitch on the caravan. 

When I started looking at these there are different makes.  I know I need one with an extended neck, but what are the meaning of the figures that some brands quote?  e.g.

D value = 17kN,
S value = 150kg

Most have the same D value, but some that I have seen have S value as 150kg, some have 120kg.  I just wondered if the S value has anything to do with the noseweight that the tow ball can take? (I am aware that the nose weight that the car can take is different to the stress on the towball - I may have answered my own question here by using the word 'stress'?)  Or if not, what this might be?  Might as well go for the best I can if I'm not paying (sorry, that sounds a bit cheap).

Any advice?



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David


11/3/2010 at 11:25am
 Location: West Scotland
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if it is a flanged ball then get a genuine alko one, they are about £20 and replace the bolts as a matter of course incase the threads are stretched

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11/3/2010 at 1:15pm
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Don't know what they mean but this place say they should be at least as high as is marked on the towbar on all vehicles manufactured after 1998.

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Wendy


11/3/2010 at 1:16pm
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sorry - forgot the link

http://www.western-towing.co.uk/acatalog/Towballs.html



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Wendy


11/3/2010 at 6:06pm
 Location: West Mids
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The 'D' rating is generally attributed to the towing bracket more than the ball
A towbar manufacturer is obliged to include a 'D' value in kn on the towbar identification plate.
The "D" value is calculated as follows:
(GVW x GTW ) / (GVW + GTW) x 9.81/1000 (gravity)= kn
GVW is Gross Vehicle Weight, and GTW Gross Trailer Weight.

It's recommended the towball ratings are higher than those of the bracket itself, so the 'D' rating should be equal or exceed that of the towbar and the 'S' value is the maximum nose-load of the ball.

So yes, you have answered your own question; aim for the higher 'S' rating. The Al-ko original tow-ball would be the best option I'd have thought as at least you know it'll be fully ok with your hitch etc. I'd be dubious of cheaper 'pattern' parts, it's just not worth it especially as the third party will be footing your costs.

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Paul

Every day's a school day!


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12/3/2010 at 4:13pm
 Location: Cambridgeshire
 Outfit: Ssangyong Rodius. Adria
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How about having a swan neck ball fitted?
It will be fine for alko stabiliser and you could use with a normal hitch as well

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There we go !!!


12/3/2010 at 6:58pm
 Location: north wales
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"(Always a good thing to do - tow balls being cast iron and can have 'hidden cracks' etc)."

I am surprised to hear that tow-balls are cast iron and not forged steel.  . Cast iron is brittle and I would have thought not the best material for a safety critical part. 

Brian  



15/3/2010 at 9:13am
 Location: Polesworth Warwickshire
 Outfit: Bailey Unicorn III Valencia (LR Disco)
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Quote: Originally posted by G7ACU on 11/3/2010
The 'D' rating is generally attributed to the towing bracket more than the ball
A towbar manufacturer is obliged to include a 'D' value in kn on the towbar identification plate.
The "D" value is calculated as follows:
(GVW x GTW ) / (GVW + GTW) x 9.81/1000 (gravity)= kn
GVW is Gross Vehicle Weight, and GTW Gross Trailer Weight.

It's recommended the towball ratings are higher than those of the bracket itself, so the 'D' rating should be equal or exceed that of the towbar and the 'S' value is the maximum nose-load of the ball.

So yes, you have answered your own question; aim for the higher 'S' rating. The Al-ko original tow-ball would be the best option I'd have thought as at least you know it'll be fully ok with your hitch etc. I'd be dubious of cheaper 'pattern' parts, it's just not worth it especially as the third party will be footing your costs.
Thanks for that G7ACU.  Exactly the answer I wanted.

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David


15/3/2010 at 9:16am
 Location: Polesworth Warwickshire
 Outfit: Bailey Unicorn III Valencia (LR Disco)
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Quote: Originally posted by brianconwy on 12/3/2010

"(Always a good thing to do - tow balls being cast iron and can have 'hidden cracks' etc)."

I am surprised to hear that tow-balls are cast iron and not forged steel.  . Cast iron is brittle and I would have thought not the best material for a safety critical part. 

Brian  


I many have got that bit wrong.  Personally, I haven't a clue - just quoting what the garage man said, and the insurance co. swallowed it, so I assumed it was right.

Thank you all for your replies.



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David


15/3/2010 at 11:33am
 Location: Lancashire
 Outfit: Caravan now Sold
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yes they are a casting and as such are subject to cracking,mine was replaced after a rear end shunt.

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the only silly question is the one you do not ask.


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01/4/2010 at 3:04am
 Location: Polesworth Warwickshire
 Outfit: Bailey Unicorn III Valencia (LR Disco)
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Tow bar specialists are now suggesting I should, as a matter of course, replace the whole tow bar in the case of any rear end shunt, irrespective of whether there is any visible damage or not.  The insurance co. of the other person have said go ahead and get it done.  I told them the price last Friday.  Cheque arrived last Saturday.  Brilliant service, no paperwork required at all from me.  They don't even want a receipt!!  I was amazed.  (OP insured by Sheila's Wheels)

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David


01/4/2010 at 5:36am
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Quote: Originally posted by G7ACU on 11/3/2010
The 'D' rating is generally attributed to the towing bracket more than the ball
A towbar manufacturer is obliged to include a 'D' value in kn on the towbar identification plate.
The "D" value is calculated as follows:
(GVW x GTW ) / (GVW + GTW) x 9.81/1000 (gravity)= kn
GVW is Gross Vehicle Weight, and GTW Gross Trailer Weight.

It's recommended the towball ratings are higher than those of the bracket itself, so the 'D' rating should be equal or exceed that of the towbar and the 'S' value is the maximum nose-load of the ball.

So yes, you have answered your own question; aim for the higher 'S' rating. The Al-ko original tow-ball would be the best option I'd have thought as at least you know it'll be fully ok with your hitch etc. I'd be dubious of cheaper 'pattern' parts, it's just not worth it especially as the third party will be footing your costs.

 

Given that (GVW+GTW) = (GVW+GTW) then (GVW+GTW)/(GVW+GTW) = 1 and therefore (GVW x GTW ) / (GVW + GTW) x 9.81/1000 (gravity)= 0.00981kn. I suspect you must have misquoted this equation somewhere as the answer will come out the same, regardless of GVW and GTW.




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