I have two leisure batteries and I'm trying to work out a way to charge the one not in use from the car while I am driving about not hitched to the caravan. Someone has suggested a lead that plugs into the cig lighter with croc clips on the other end which i could plug in when im driving and unplug when the engine is switched off (otherwise, I'm told, the leisure battery will try and "equalise" with the car battery) Someone else has suggested a grey plug into the grey socket on the tow bar with croc clips / clamps on the other end connected to the second battery in the boot. The second suggestion seems wiser to me as i guess is means everything then runs through the right relays and fuses - only problem is I'm not sure I could get that thick grey type wire back into the boot via the hatchback door - some thinner stuff would probably squeeze through but how safe is that? I dont want to spend huge money on relays etc as it's not something I will use that often - anyone got any ideas?
Huge amounts on a relay?I think you are looking at the cheapest way to go and the best. It cost me £25 to have mine fitted. The relay was fitted near the alternator, and a wire taken to the rear seat .I did the rest. Fitting a battery box under the backseat of a BMW next to the cars battery was easy.
------------- Corpogreen esq
dead horse
and
donkey buyer
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Yes you are right marlot. I connect the wires (one from the relay, one from earth) to the battery with the proper clamps and leave a spanner duck taped to the side of the battery box
------------- Corpogreen esq
dead horse
and
donkey buyer
Assuming you can trace, in the boot, the cable which, with the engine running, feeds the appropriate terminal on the grey socket (ie the one that would charge the caravan battery), could you not use a tap connector to run a fused cable to the battery?
This would avoid wiring up a grey plug, feeding cables through the boot/hatch and having to remember to uplug a lighter socket lead.
As recommended above, use either car type or quick release connectors on the terminals of the securely mounted battery.
Quote: Originally posted by Hulltrucker on 03/9/2010
The second suggestion seems wiser to me as i guess is means everything then runs through the right relays and fuses - only problem is I'm not sure I could get that thick grey type wire back into the boot via the hatchback door - some thinner stuff would probably squeeze through but how safe is that? I dont want to spend huge money on relays etc as it's not something I will use that often - anyone got any ideas?
Don't use croc clips get some quick release connectors and a length of 15 amp two core cable, irt works and it is very safe. When you connect it up use the connections which are designed to power the fridge as they come from the S socket ( pins 6 and 7, 7 being the earth ) as this is the only circuit on a correctly set up modern ( post 1997 ) setup which is live when the engine is running and has zero voltage when the engine is not running. I have used this system for years and it is simple and very very effective.
------------- Bill
For a licence dated 1997 or later you must add together the plated max weight of the caravan and trailer, if the total is 3500 or less you can tow it. You may even tow a caravan with a MAM greater than the cars unladen mass the restriction was removed in 2013
>> Point taken about the croc clips - but in principle will either solution actually work?
The best one is coming from the 12S socket. You already have the relay and such like, so won't run the risk of flattening the car battery.
if it were me, I'd solder a wire into the feed to the 12S socket, feed it into the boot through a big fuse (say 20A) and terminate in a 50A anderson plug. An auto electrician would probably charge £20 for doing the wiring.
Just to say many thanks to you all that posted replies - I think I have it clear in my head now what I need to do and I will defdinately NOT use croc clips!