I decided to paint the tied and battered furniture in my crappy old caravan but wanting to get as good a finish as possible I decided to buy a 750ml tin of Ronseal Cupboard Paint extra durable, supper smooth finish, quick drying and one coat £17.98 expensive but I thought it would be worth it in long run. I also brought some good quality fine hair paint brushes to maximise the quality of the finish.
After following all the preparations on the tin I started on one of the small doors on the galley unit. First problem it wouldn’t cover in one coat but it did say in instructions very dark surfaces may need 2 coats. Well I wouldn’t call the surfaces as very dark but I thought I will go for 2 coats as that may give a better finish anyway. So I done all the galley units, seating side panels, wardrobe and cupboards but left the tables as they look ok as the where.
The instructions said to leave for 16hours before over coating so left it to next day 19 hours in all. Started on wardrobe painted 1 side started on front then noticed the first side was reacting (wrinkling up) in places then it started on the front were I had just painted. My first thought was what have I done wrong then I thought if I had surly there would have been a problem with the first coat, anyway I decided to try a small bit on part of the galley unit with the same result it was clear the second coat was reacting with the first.
Took it back to B&Q kicked up a fuse the refunded £17.98 and called Ronseal who said guess what? Yes it was my fault as I couldn’t have got the paint PERFECTLY even so some parts may not have cured properly after 19 hours and I should have used a roller instead of a brush except it say to use a brush on the tin but apparently that doesn’t mean you can’t use a roller (like I would know that). So there answer is wait a few days to make sure it’s all dry rub all the reaction areas smooth and give it another coat at a cost of £17.98 and see if that’s ok. Do these people really think I have nothing better to do (I don’t but they don’t know that) and what if it still reacts? With any paint I use, I have to strip the lot off and start again. I wonder if the Top Gear team would like to borrow it for one of their fun trips away which might involve the Fire Brigade or a low flying car maybe.
looks to me like a reaction of the base make up or thinners of the paints.ie oil base and water based paint.ie the one used is stronger than the one already there.
------------- the only silly question is the one you do not ask.
I dont know about the Ronseal stuff but if its anything like the Dulux cupbord door makeover paint aimed at kitchen and bathroom refurbishment its absolutly rubbish no matter what you put it on with. Its so thick it leaves lines on the surfaces how ever careful you are, we tried using it over some white melamine draw fronts as a white on white freshen up but it eventually started to peal off despite following the instructions to sand it down first to form a Key for the new stuff to adhere to.
In the end we used plain old satin coat brilliant white which did a much better job the same as it has on all our internal doors and white woodwork around the house.
Julia
------------- Just love to be out amoungst Nature and Wildlife
Celebrating 37 years of Caravanning in 2019, Recently Considered Retiring, but Totally Addicted for Life!
I normally use cheapo bodgit and legit paint never had any problem with that so guess I will give that a go ... ever started something you wish you hadn't
I agree with Andy. Although caravan fittings look like real wood it is often just a paper thin film of wood effect material layered onto chipboard or contiboard.
I discovered this when I tried to wash a stain off a cupboard in an old caravan I had and took the woodgrain effect clean off. Fortunately it was only a very small area and didn't show too much.
The photos look to me as if the paint has reacted with the wood effect film and caused it to bubble
Hi, Looks to me that the substrate was'nt prepared correctly, ie somthing on the surface before the first coat was applied, this would retard the curing time of the first coat, there is a differance between drying and curing time, then what happens is you apply the second coat, it starts to dry, as it drys it pulls the first coat up in the area's the first coat hasn't cured and gives the result you have. To fix you need to either seal the area's affected. or strip the substrate, clean and prepare correctly, then recoat.
yesterday next door had a painter round so I nabbed him and ask what he thought the problem was and he said it was lack of UV light. I had taken the some of the furnature out and put it in garage were I painted it and of course closed the garage door (as the garage I rent for the caravan is round the corner from my house). All paint needs some UV light to cure properly which didn't accure to me . This is born out by the fact the side that was facing the door when I put first coat on didn't react and the sides that wasn't did so we live and learn.
On the bright side the painter also give me some advice on how to get a good finish with a standard non drip gloss and an ultra fine brush and I'm pleased with the result much better than I expected.
Oh no what a shame ! No advice sorry - hubby might have some ideas but he's out atm. Hope you can manage to rescue it one way or another though, & I'll ask him if he has any ideas when he's home.
Quote: Originally posted by jeff juke on 27/5/2011
Thats funny about the paint,sprayed cars in a booth and we never used uv lighting..sure hes not winding you up ?
Paint booths I have seen have very strong lighting so the sprayer can see clearly what he is doing and as far as I know electric lights give off UV light too.
Quote: Originally posted by Dorset Paul on 27/5/2011
Hi, it looks to me .... that after reading your other post, your wife shouldn't let you near any odd jobs that need doing lol!!!
NOW LOOK HERE BUD! .......... Your completely right its all part of my secret plan to get out of DIY lol