Quote: Originally posted by JTQU on 23/10/2011
Sounds so very different to Alde UK's support of Alde products.
A quick look on Alde's website does indicate good info and back up. Fine, but only one factor in caravan build. Rather like saying a car is good because it a reliable heater system. So simple to repair is still my maxim. I treat the towcar with the same practicality; only what I need. When choosing my model, the salesman tried to interest me in the self-parking facility. Ha, told him when i need that I'll pack in driving.
On another note, ref reliability, I recently discovered that a fault in the van radio connection immobilised the fridge when set to battery for travelling, because it uses the same fuse. That's going to be changed; what a silly idea.
Yes, there is plenty to go wrong, but we were talking here specifically about the Alde system as you were questioning its suitability and reliability for caravan use.
I think we Alde "converts" will have to agree to differ with you on this occasion!
The popularity and apparent reliability of the system can be seen in Swift's decision to use it in all their top range models, and prospective purchasers even asking for it to be made an option across the vans in the other ranges.
------------- Jennifer
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This may be a possibility, water on your hot water side (hotwater taps) may be entering the heating water inside the boiler, The coil in the boiler may have bursted, here is the nearest point they get to each other, so when you run your hotwater it is entering the heating water coil, Just a may be,
------------- Roughing it in style at Calloose caravan and camping holiday park nr St Ives.(seasonal pitch)
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Quote: Originally posted by Bill Terry on 23/10/2011
This may be a possibility, water on your hot water side (hotwater taps) may be entering the heating water inside the boiler, The coil in the boiler may have bursted, here is the nearest point they get to each other, so when you run your hotwater it is entering the heating water coil, Just a may be,
Sounds worrying. The last thing you want is an antifreeze solution leeching into the domestic water system.
If the heating fluid was leaking it would be obvious if you drained down the hot water side of the system and left the heating side alone as the level in the header tank would drop. If the hot water side was left full and pressurised by the pump the greater pressure on the hot water side would cause the water to pass through to the heating side rather than the glycol mix to pass into the hot water side of the system.
I'm pretty sure OP does not realise the drain valve is open on the hot water side rather than it being a header overflow. It seams more of a case of RTFM rather than panicking with FUD
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