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Quote: Originally posted by tango55 on 19/10/2012

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I thought the idea was that the plate should cover two of the wheel bolt holes as it doesn't look much of a deterrent regarding the 5 stud wheel removal also the steel pin should be hardened and tempered so it meets the insurance criteria so it can't be drilled out with a tungsten carbide drill tip. It won't take much drilling out if the pin is only made from mild steel. Looking at the DIY wheel clamp, the wheel can still be rotated anyway so no drilling would be required at all if a thief can tow it away.

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Quote: Originally posted by Al+Mel on 19/10/2012

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Quote: Originally posted by tango55 on 19/10/2012

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I thought the idea was that the plate should cover two of the wheel bolt holes as it doesn't look much of a deterrent regarding the 5 stud wheel removal also the steel pin should be hardened and tempered so it meets the insurance criteria so it can't be drilled out with a tungsten carbide drill tip. It won't take much drilling out if the pin is only made from mild steel. Looking at the DIY wheel clamp, the wheel can still be rotated anyway so no drilling would be required at all if a thief can tow it away.

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The wheel can't be rotated as the bolt locates to a receiver welded to the chassis.

If a thief comes with cutting gear to remove an Alko type wheel lock, nothing will stop them, they are going to take the 'van whatever. Apparently the damage caused by cutting off the receiver destroys the hub, brakes wheel etc, so would such a 'van be worth having afterwards?

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Quote: Originally posted by johnks on 19/10/2012

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Quote: Originally posted by Al+Mel on 19/10/2012

Quote: Originally posted by tango55 on 19/10/2012I thought the idea was that the plate should cover two of the wheel bolt holes as it doesn't look much of a deterrent regarding the 5 stud wheel removal also the steel pin should be hardened and tempered so it meets the insurance criteria so it can't be drilled out with a tungsten carbide drill tip. It won't take much drilling out if the pin is only made from mild steel. Looking at the DIY wheel clamp, the wheel can still be rotated anyway so no drilling would be required at all if a thief can tow it away.

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The wheel can't be rotated as the bolt locates to a receiver welded to the chassis.

If a thief comes with cutting gear to remove an Alko type wheel lock, nothing will stop them, they are going to take the 'van whatever. Apparently the damage caused by cutting off the receiver destroys the hub, brakes wheel etc, so would such a 'van be worth having afterwards?

Apparently not the case. On one of the forums somebody had their van stolen and the lock was left on the ground and could be used again.

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Quote: Originally posted by Bill Terry on 19/10/2012 I think it`s better than any other wheel lock you can buy, can you not stick some rubber on the back of the steel pad, stop it marking the wheel? Just a point, might be better to make the bolt out of stainless.[/QUOTEBill, thanks for your positive comments!

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I would have made the bolt out of stainless, (I'm a time-served machinist) but have you tried screwcutting the stuff....? I will take your idea on board regarding the rubber pad and another (bigger) key. I suppose I could also look at buying a Range Rover coded key nut and making a matching head for the bolt!
John

Post last edited on 20/10/2012 10:53:47

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Dream as if you'll live forever, live as if you'll die today!

Quote: Originally posted by Inkaboat on 20/10/2012

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Thanks for all of your interesting observations, all feedback gratefully received.
To answer as best I can:
1. The wheel can't be turned as there is a socking great 20mm steel bolt hard up against the receiving socket.

2. I tried tapping the bolt round (with a lump hammer - not a stone!) and there isn't enough torque to overcome the friction between the nut face and the alloy block, and also a well tightened 20mm bolt.

3. The wheel can't be removed because of (2) above: in fact I can't see the point of the Alko insert covering just two of the bolts. If one is that paranoid then why not fit a set of locking wheel nuts?

4. Any attempt to drill it out would only serve to tighten it up: it is not a flimsy barrel lock!

5. I know that if someone wants to take my van, then it will happen....

Quote: Originally posted by Bill Terry on 19/10/2012 I think it`s better than any other wheel lock you can buy, can you not stick some rubber on the back of the steel pad, stop it marking the wheel? Just a point, might be better to make the bolt out of stainless.[/QUOTEBill, thanks for your positive comments!I would have made the bolt out of stainless, (I'm a time-served machinist) but have you tried screwcutting the stuff....? I will take your idea on board regarding the rubber pad and another (bigger) key. I suppose I could also look at buying a Range Rover coded key nut and making a matching head for the bolt!

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John

Post last edited on 20/10/2012 10:53:47

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You want to try screwcutting EN8. Just as bad. lol



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Roughing it in style at Calloose caravan and camping holiday park nr St Ives.(seasonal pitch)
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