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Subject Topic: carver heater problem Post Reply Post New Topic
23/8/2013 at 9:41pm
 Location: North West
 Outfit: 1983 Sprite Musketeer original(?) awn
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Our 1983 Musketeer has what I assume is the original heater fitted, a carver caravelle, not sure of the model.
When we bought the van a couple of months ago the chap who owned it showed us the heater working, no problem. The engineer who serviced the van for us said it works but the dial is a bit temperamental.
We were away in the van for the first time at the weekend and got it fired up no problem. We turned off and tried again, just to familiarise ourselves with it and it wouldn't light. After this we had a flashing green light. Tried several times with no luck.
As it wasn't cold we decided to try again at home. Tried today, still nothing. :(
No flashing light now though, just a steady green.

The heater has a wall mounted panel with a numbered dial and a switch which has a little green light when on. I assume due to years of use the transparent brown plastic dial you turn has broken and can be taken clean away from the wall panel. Bearing this in mind we turned the dial using a small screwdriver this evening but it still isn't ticking to ignite at any point.

Obviously we don't want to mess too much as it's gas but if we could get the ignition to work I feel confident it would work fine again, as it has done several times beforehand.

When the engineer filled out the report form he made a note about the PCB board which I understand is the 'brain' of the thing. Again he did say it worked though and we know it does as it did to begin with! Have read about ignition problems due to low battery but we were on EHU at the weekend so that shouldn't have been an issue?

We are flummoxed atm. Have booked a week away at half term and I think by then we will need the heat! Don't want the faff of a separate heater or the price fwiw, plus want to keep the van as much as possible in original working condition.

Any help or advice gratefully received.

Post last edited on 23/08/2013 22:12:45

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Lisa


23/8/2013 at 9:43pm
 Location: North West
 Outfit: 1983 Sprite Musketeer original(?) awn
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Sorry double post

Post last edited on 23/08/2013 22:12:10

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Lisa


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24/8/2013 at 1:11am
 Location: None Entered
 Outfit: http: www.arcsystems.biz
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Your service engineer may well have given the clue talking of the flaky dial?

The dial which sets the temperature turns what is basically a volume control, this large component is mounted onto the pcb by three heavy solder connections. What I then often find is one or more of these solder joints has cracked and the now poor connection will cause the problems you are experiencing.
If so, the solution is to resolder all three joints, albeit only two are connected to anything.

The connection cable to the fire attaches to the control switch with a plastic bar pushing onto 6 pins on the pcb, you will need to pull this off to fix the solder joints. But when refitting, push it on and off again two or three time and this will scratch a good clean connection.
This simple little trick curing many another perplexing problem!


24/8/2013 at 7:22am
 Location: North West
 Outfit: 1983 Sprite Musketeer original(?) awn
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Ah, arc systems! I have read about you on here, massive thanks for your input.
Will show this to hubby later. Thanks again.

As an aside, can we just superglue the plastic wheel in? We're pretty sure it's not a tight enough fit to actually be turning the control atm, hence resorting to a screwdriver!

Post last edited on 24/08/2013 07:28:26

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Lisa


24/8/2013 at 9:31pm
 Location: North West
 Outfit: 1983 Sprite Musketeer original(?) awn
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Looked at wall panel this evening, the back ie the veneer panel on the inside of the cupboard side it is fitted too is just glued on with a wire and the bottom of two screws poking out! Are we doing this right or is there a way to get into the thermostat through the front?!
Suffice to say the heater remains unfixed! :)

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Lisa


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24/8/2013 at 10:08pm
 Location: None Entered
 Outfit: http: www.arcsystems.biz
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Yes you remove the front cover to get at the pcb underneath, for this you will find a small pointed kitchen knife useful?

First then remove dial, on the top of the brown cover you will will find a row of slots, pick a central one and put the tip of the knife under the back edge and lever down to lift the back edge slightly and release a claw type catch. You should now find the cover comes off

And NO, never use super glue, infact gluing with anything will end up being more trouble than it's worth


24/8/2013 at 10:26pm
 Location: North West
 Outfit: 1983 Sprite Musketeer original(?) awn
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Brilliant, thank you so much once again!
So how do we solve the problem of the 'spinning' dial which we don't think is actually turning anything on the inside when we turn it on the outside please? If that makes sense?!

-------------
Lisa


24/8/2013 at 10:41pm
 Location: None Entered
 Outfit: http: www.arcsystems.biz
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Once the cover is removed and you get a better look, you may well find the problem and a better solution become clear.

I can say glue ends up costing more as it seldom lasts and just makes a proper repair all the more difficult/expensive to achieve.
I know, I come across glue all the time fixing customers botch jobs!



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