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Topic: Quick Question when running on Battery
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24/3/2014 at 11:46am
Location: East Herts Outfit: 1992 Elddis Wisp 450CT + X Trail
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Others have given very good answers to your problem, but I would add that increasing the battery capacity would only increase the length of time that you can draw current before the battery voltage starts to drop off. If the flickering is occurring with a fully charged battery, it is likely to be that the wiring is not up to the job. An item such as a pump draws quite a bit of current initially as it starts up, which will cause the voltage to drop momentarily, hence the lights flickering. The only real way round this would be to rewire everything, but that is obviously not practical. If the TV is the main problem, what I would do personally is to wire in a separate feed direct from the battery via its own fuse, exclusively for the TV. I don't think you can do much about the lights flickering, this is just an inherent problem with low-voltage systems, I find.
------------- Best Regards,
Colin
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24/3/2014 at 1:32pm
Location: East Herts Outfit: 1992 Elddis Wisp 450CT + X Trail
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Mick, to a large extent that is probably right. I think that the 12 volt electrical systems installed in most caravans aren't really designed for multiple gadgets, as if they were, they would be wired with much thicker cables and provision would be made for multiple battery installations like on many boats. My boat had two 110ah batteries, to cope with the demand of a fridge, navigation lights, and bilge pumps, as well as domestic equipment. On more extensively equipped boats than mine, I have seen banks of 4 or even 6 batteries.
It's simple, the more you want to use, the larger the supply of electricity you need, and the heavier the wiring.
------------- Best Regards,
Colin
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24/3/2014 at 9:56pm
Location: West country Outfit: Mondeo
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Is this a fairly new factory wired van or has the electrics been added by a DIYer. If it's newish and factory wired then its less likely to be a wiring fault. At 12 volts, the current is high and this causes volt drop in the cable, much more so and much more significantly than in 230/240.volt circuits. If the light and TV are on the same circuit (the same wire loops from the socket feeding the TV to the light) then there will be quite a considerable volt drop by the time it reaches the light. A cheap voltmeter will help. See if you can measure the voltage at the battery with nothing switched on and see how much it falls when things are switched on. Then measure the voltage at the light or TV socket and compare that with the voltage at the battery. The difference is the volt drop in the wiring. This can help yoiu decide whether it is the battery or the wiring which is at fault.
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24/3/2014 at 10:34pm
Location: None Entered Outfit: None Entered
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Quote: Originally posted by navver on 24/3/2014
Is this a fairly new factory wired van or has the electrics been added by a DIYer. If it's newish and factory wired then its less likely to be a wiring fault. At 12 volts, the current is high and this causes volt drop in the cable, much more so and much more significantly than in 230/240.volt circuits. If the light and TV are on the same circuit (the same wire loops from the socket feeding the TV to the light) then there will be quite a considerable volt drop by the time it reaches the light. A cheap voltmeter will help. See if you can measure the voltage at the battery with nothing switched on and see how much it falls when things are switched on. Then measure the voltage at the light or TV socket and compare that with the voltage at the battery. The difference is the volt drop in the wiring. This can help yoiu decide whether it is the battery or the wiring which is at fault.
Thanks.
It is a 2007 and all looks to be factory fitted rather than DIY.
Interstingly, the overhead big oval lights weren't affected by the pump coming on and didn't affect the TV either, it was only the downlights and rooflight lights that flickered.
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