We asked our mobile servicer to replace this, he said he would get back to us but hasn't. The only place I can think of to get this done is White Arches, our nearest dealer which is 4o miles away. What have others done about this? I believe it's awkward to do yourself.
And does anyone know if anything has happened to Graham Mottler, aka the Careavan Man, based in Uxbridge?
Anne there are posts in the repair section, I think, about doing it yourself. I think they gave a step by step guide and it did sound quite easy.
------------- XVI yes?
As well is two words!
How does a sage know everything about everything? or does he? or does he just think he does?
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Having done it DIY, it is an easy enough if a rather fiddle job. It is important to identify where all the bleed points are and the drain, before starting as you are going to need visit them.
If you use a fluid like Comma's X-stream G40 [ a product meeting VW spec G12++], then you don't need to flush out all traces of the old fluid as this mixes happily, and gives 5 year life.
why do you want to change the antifreeze Two years is the recommended time to change it but like sell by dates and the like it can go longer. it is similar to your car it just needs the occasional top up the antifreeze must be suitable for aluminium.
60/40, water / Ethylene Glycol.
You are suppose to have a special purge tool to change the fluid perhaps the engineer doesn't have one.
Quote:
Originally posted by GERONA on 27/3/2015why do you want to change the antifreeze Two years is the recommended time to change it but like sell by dates and the like it can go longer. it is similar to your car it just needs the occasional top up the antifreeze must be suitable for aluminium.
60/40, water / Ethylene Glycol.
You are suppose to have a special purge tool to change the fluid perhaps the engineer doesn't have one.
You fail to understand why the fluid is changed in both the Alde and cars. The antifreeze properties don't degrade over time, unless you dilute it, but the corrosion inhibiting properties do.
If you are happy enough to risk writing off a unit costing over£1000, then you can save £20 every two or five years not changing the fluid.
I don't think with the corrosion loads in the materials used in the Adle system it is too time critical, but I do think it is a fools game to totally ignore doing it.
There is a purge pump system that makes changing easy, but wastes a lot more fluid than gravity induced changing; but it is anything but essential as I and countless other users over the years bear witness.
Even topping up, it is less than wise to use anything but the same generic group of products as already there, unless using a G12++ or later spec product; there are mixing issues.
5 litres of concentrate if used at the suggested dilution of 40/60% will make up 12.5 litres of mixture; for many vans this is will just about do two changes. I use it at 50/50% as it is easy to do. That of course gives you 10 litres, enough for most changes and oodles in reserve for topping up over the next 5 years.
Halfords sell it but now in only 2 litre containers, a dear option.
Many car “auto factors” sell it at trade price so you could ring around for a good price.
Ideally mix it with “de-ionised” water, again auto factors are a source for this. Using tap water is tolerable.
Just be careful to get specifically the product mentioned, "Xstream" is also used for other products, not all are suitable.