I have a Carver Cascade 2 water heater fitted which has given good service 'til now. I am lead to believe that the non-return valve is malfunctioning and I would like to replace it. I cant seem to make it turn and I am afraid to apply too much pressure as it is only plastic as you will be aware. Please tell me it is not a left hand thread as I feel bad enough already. Cheers you lot I can hear you laughing already.
As far as I know they are a tapered thread and can be a pig to get out.I had to change mine a few years ago but it came straight out. If it snaps the trick is supposed to be cut a couple of slots inside it with a hacksaw blade and use a large screw driver to turn it.
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The best tool to use is a tube socket and 'T' bar as you can apply equal pressure all round when you turn it. An ordinary socket has no central clearance and a open ended spanner will slip off which will more likely cause it to snap. It is a tapered thread because it has to be water tight, that's why it takes some shifting but applying a spray of WD40 should help.
You can use the tube socket to lock the new one in too.
Actually, I do believe it has a parallel thread as it seats on to the casing with an O ring.
I used a ring spanner to remove mine but a broken one is relatively easy to remove with a junior hacksaw blade in 4 places and then carefully prise the broken bits away with a screw driver. Don't cut too deep with the hacksaw blade though
It's definitely a tapered thread as I had to change one on a Carver cascade 2 about 5 years ago. You can tell it's tapered by looking at the new one and there's no sealing 'O' ring either.
Have a look at this thread as there is an exploded view of the tank which the valve is item 7.
I melted a slot in the broken piece with a hot screw driver, then after things had cooled used that to remove the stub. I made a 16 mm tap to clean up the corroded threads; If I recall correctly [I can no longer check] the thread is the same as a towball bolt, so filing a flat down one would make a tool able to clean the thread up if necessary.
Edit: I think you will find modern ones are "filled" nylon so much stronger than the original unfilled nylon that were very prone to break; the hot outlet and relief valve cracking even in service due to water absorption and heating.
Maybe they changed the original idea then of having a self sealing tapered thread due to the problem of releasing the non return valve when replacing. After all, a straight thread with rubber 'O' ring is a much better idea.
So you gotta get the right one for your appliance and if it's a taper thread you could remove the valve bit and fit an inline one that can be cleaned or changed in minutes rather then hours. :-;
Thanks to everyone who have replied to my query. Sorry it was not earlier but we are in France with a limited internet access. I feel a lot more confident now that I will be able to overcome this problem. PS Now the refrigerator has decided it has had enough in this hot weather we are having. Heh Hoh, just another thing to put right when we get back home. Cheers everyone.
If the outdoor temperature is hot and you are operating the fridge by electric then the advice is to swap over to gas as this will decrease the fridge temperature and make it much colder.
I recently had to replace the hot water valve on mine, unfortunately it snapped when I tried to remove it. Tried pretty much every method suggested so far on this thread but none worked. In the end I used a soldering iron and melted out a section of the plastic then it all just came away bit by bit but was well and truly stuck! Good luck!