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Subject Topic: what to look for Post Reply Post New Topic
15/8/2015 at 8:53am
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Having always been a die hard campers this year the weather has finally beaten us, we've decided the time has come to consider a caravan so we can continue in the outdoor pleasures and retain our sanity, so can anyone guide us through what we should look out for in our search for our next holiday home, we've narrowed down our requirements,
2-3 berth, with adult children still at home decided it's not a family quest more our weekender to get away
Has to be second-hand,new is financially out of the question unfortunately, budget of about £7000, so I guess looking about a 2005-2008
Completely new to this so what should we ask questions about and when looking what hidden nasties etc should we be aware of, seen that a damp meter is a handy gadget to take along which areas should we aim that in, thank you


15/8/2015 at 10:23am
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Check all the corners, bed boxes and roof lockers and cupboards for signs of damp. This can be done with a damp meter, available from DIY stores and could save you time and money. Check the grab handles and give them a hefty tug. If they appear to be loose, it’s a sure sign that the seals have gone and water has entered the van. Beware, as a damp caravan could cost you twice as much to repair as you paid for it.
To replace the whole front end panel would cost approximately £3000; smaller repairs start from £300.
Possible cost £300-£3000

Seals
Various types of sealant are used in caravan production; acrylic, silicone and oil-based, which can last between five and 20 years. Have a good look around the panels for signs of perished, missing or penetrated seals, water ingress and rusting screws. To re-seal a whole caravan would cost approximately £940.
Possible cost £940

Doors and Lockers
Check that all the doors open and shut properly, including the main door and the lockers. Do they fit snugly or can you see daylight through the seals? Check the hinges are secure and that the locks work and turn freely. Spare cupboard doors on a caravan more than 10 years old would be hard to find, Modern equivalents can be purchased through the dealer from £60. Hinges and screws are available from your local DIY store.
Possible cost £60 per door

Windows
Check around for cracks in the windows and seals.
A common problem is that the plastic trim around the inside of the windows cracks as it gets older. Check the window locks. Make sure they work and watch out for signs of rust round the screws. If the windows are double-glazed, look for signs of condensation between the layers. Replacement windows aren’t cheap and start from £180 for the smallest window.
Possible cost £180

Floors
Take a walk round the caravan to see if the floors are weak or sagging. Pay particular attention around the door, kitchen and seating areas, as these are the main areas of use. These signs would indicate the floor is starting to de-laminate. This is expensive and not easy to repair. The usual method is to inject an expanding foam material every 4in throughout the floor. This is a very labour intensive and costly business, best carried out by a caravan repair centre. Prices start at £150 for a small section, up to £600 for the whole caravan. Our advice is to stay aware unless the price reflects it and you have the budget to get it fixed.
Possible cost £150-£600

Electrics/gas
Get the dealer to check that the gas and electrics comply with safety standards. Get him to show you how the appliances work. Spares for old water heaters are scare and a replacement including taps and fitting would cost £600.Check that all the gas appliances operate and burn with a blue flame. This indicates that the gas is being burnt efficiently and is free of carbon monoxide. Also check that all the gas flues are in good condition on appliances such as the fridge and heater.
Possible cost £600

Hitch and chassis
Although the hitch and chassis should have been serviced by the used dealer, it doesn’t hurt to check that the mechanism moves freely, the push bar moves correctly and that they are both well-lubricated. Check the condition of the rubber gaiter that covers the push bar between the hitch and A-frame. If the caravan has an AL-KO hitch stabiliser, this should not be greased or lubricated or else it will be rendered ineffective. A replacement hitch would eat £200 from your budget, including dampers and fitting. As for the chassis, check the steadies wind up and down freely and that the A-frame isn’t bent. Modern chassis are designed not to be drilled – check that there is a stabiliser bracket.
Possible cost £60

Stabiliser
Replacement pads are available on some models but they need to be set at the right torque to be effective.
New stabilisers retail from £60.
Possible cost £60

Jockey wheel
Check first that the winding mechanism is functioning correctly and is well-greased. Check that the wheel is not worn or punctured if it’s an inflatable, and check that the securing pin or bolt that attaches the wheel is intact and allows the wheel to rotate freely.
Possible cost £30-£70

Tyres
When checking tyres you need to be concentrating less on the tread and more on the condition of the tyre walls. Severe cracking of the tyres’ walls means the side walls are damaged and could blow any time. The cost to replace would be £30 to £70 per tyre.
Possible cost £30-£70

Brakes
Does the handbrake move freely and is effective? Also check that the breakaway cable is in good condition and has secure connection to the base of the handbrake. Put it on and off and watch for signs of drooping or bucking when the handbrake is released. This could show that there may be a problem with the brakes such as binding. Your caravan would have been serviced before collecting, but expect to pay from £120 for a full service which will include the brakes.
Possible cost £120

Breakaway cables
These are often overlooked, but are a vital point of safety if the caravan comes detached from the car. Make sure they are secured and replace if rusty.
Possible cost £5

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Animals have feelings..

JEFF................


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15/8/2015 at 10:57am
 Location: Royal Forest of Dean
 Outfit:  Swift Major 4SB
View Rob and Tina's Profile View Profile   Reply to Rob and Tina Reply   Quote Rob and Tina Quote  
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I agree with Jeff's post above about all the possible problems and the costs which may give you some haggling room.

The first thing to consider when looking for a caravan is what you can tow and what your car can tow. As you have adult children I presume you passed the driving test before 1997 so you will not be restricted but the towing limit of your car is important and if you have to change car this will eat in to your budget. You also have to allow for tow bar fitting in your budget.

I would have a wander around a few caravan dealers and look at lots of different units to see which layouts would suit you, we had a fixed bed 4 berth so that we didn't have to make a bed up every night.

I hope this all helps rather than confuses you, there's a lot to consider and most of us change vans again after a year or so as we seek that perfect caravan.

Rob


15/8/2015 at 11:13am
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View caren's Profile View Profile   Reply to caren Reply   Quote caren Quote  
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Thank you Jeff and Rob, thank you taking the trouble to write such a detailed response far more than I hoped for, so useful, I'm going to print off all the info and take it with me when we go looking, car wise we have a ford c max 1800 engine so maybe not meaty enough to tow but my husband has a 2L diesel van so we will shall use that until we need to upgrade our car, thank you the advice is much appreciated 😀


15/8/2015 at 11:38am
 Location: Teesside
 Outfit: Challenger Sport 524 + Volvo V90 D5
View Hairywol's Profile View Profile   Reply to Hairywol Reply   Quote Hairywol Quote  
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We moved from tent to caravan last year after 20 years tenting. A great move for us since it extends our camping season to the whole year.

If you're buying from a dealer you should get a decent guarantee and some good advice. But remember that, like seeing a show-house, the caravans you view aren't filled to the gunwales with your stuff. SO think about all the stuff you have and where it might go (remembering that heavy stuff needs to be low down in the 'van. Pretend it's your caravan and pull out the beds and sofas, lounge around and lie down to check the beds and seats are big enough (you'd be surprised how small a space some manufacturers think we can sleep in).

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Camping Gear expands so as to fill the space available for its transportation.



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15/8/2015 at 8:36pm
 Location: West country
 Outfit: Mondeo
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Good advice Hairywol. We bought one with a 3'4" wide double bed. it had to go.


16/8/2015 at 7:01am
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Jeff I remember seeing that list somewhere, was it Practical Caravan?

-------------
XVI yes?

As well is two words!
How does a sage know everything about everything? or does he? or does he just think he does?
Remember, if you buy something you bought it, not brought it.


16/8/2015 at 4:05pm
 Location: West Sussex
 Outfit: Niesmann & Bischoff Arto 76E
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I'd decide first on the best layout to suit your needs. Go around as many caravan dealers as possible - you'll soon realise which layout would be best for you. Then do your shopping.


16/8/2015 at 7:10pm
 Location: Northumberland
 Outfit: Knaus Sudwind 550 TK
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Don't let the seller - be it private or dealer, be 'pushy' either.

They'll say something like, 'oh yes everything's 'fine' etc...

Yeah right, test / check it for yourself!!!

Ours is up for ATM, we had it checked by an independent engineer to make sure everything works.

Showed up a couple of faults (fair enough), which I happily listed in the sale description...

Which seems to be scaring buyers off??

What do people want, a lying description and buy a lemon.

Or, an honest description!??

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Damned if I do...

Damned if I don't!!!!


16/8/2015 at 8:01pm
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Quote: Originally posted by blueexpo97 on 16/8/2015
Jeff I remember seeing that list somewhere, was it Practical Caravan?


Cant remember where i got it but you have a good memory for your age..



-------------
Animals have feelings..

JEFF................



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