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Topic: Alde heater header tank cap

david8858

04/1/2016 at 6:55pm
Location: Teesside
Outfit: Lunar Clubman SI H

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Does anyone know if this should be screwed on tight? I found mine to be nearly off and so tightened it and then thought, "I maybe shouldn't have done that"

Also I dimly remember during the handover the salesman saying that the liquid in the header tank must be kept between the Min and Max lines and that if it fell below Min the heating may stop working and that you should top it up. What with?

I am given to understand that the system needs re-charging with fluid after 2 years so I'm assuming that the stuff in the header tank isn't plain old H2O?

Many thanks in advance for your answers.

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David

IainM

04/1/2016 at 7:14pm
Location: West Lothian
Outfit: 20 XC60 B5 18 Elegance 580

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Mine is hand tightened. You can buy top up fluid from most dealers .... From memory it is under a tenner.

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2020 Volvo XC60 B5 R Design Geartronic / 2018 Swift Elegance 580

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Iain

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JTQU

04/1/2016 at 7:22pm
Location: Hampshire
Outfit: Hymer Nova S

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The system is charged with the same sorts of products used in car engines; a corrosion inhibited anti freeze solution at between 40/60 to 50/50% mix with deionised water.
That said, there are different types of automotive anti freezes and these can have issues if mixed.

It is "safe" to use products that meet the VW spec G12++, or better still G13. Both these mix with two and five year life types of anti freeze. The issues are conflict between the corrosion inhibitors used.

I would not do the cap up too tight, it is on a swashie seal so there is no need to over do it. The more so if your van has the pump mounted on the cap, as some do. This would lead to more noise transmission.

You can top up with water in small amounts then later top the same amount of neat antifreeze. The concentration needed is not critical as stated above.

The anti Freeze comes in both neat and premixed offerings so make sure you know what is being sold. Motor factors are by far the cheapest source, a local one or on line.

david8858

04/1/2016 at 8:03pm
Location: Teesside
Outfit: Lunar Clubman SI H

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Many thanks for your answers guys and for the detailed explanation from JTQU.

A quick question to JTQU - does the system need to be drained and the entire contents renewed every 2 years or merely topped up with the correct mix of anti-corrosion agent and anti-freeze?

I suppose what I'm asking is whether this is a thing capable of being done by the van owner or is it essential the dealer does it for warranty reasons?

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David

JTQU

04/1/2016 at 8:23pm
Location: Hampshire
Outfit: Hymer Nova S

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The bulk of the fluid needs changing as the life of the corrosion inhibitors is finite. For reasons that are hard to understand all UK van makers opt for a fluid grade with just a two year life. There are other grades that are five year life. Then there are these G12++, and more recent G13 grades that have the life of the 5 year products but can be mixed with most five and two year types. Thus, whilst no better than the unique 5 year products these newer types can be used without concerns of matching type for type, ie worry free without flushing.
Therefore if you drain out all you can of the existing after two years and fill with G12++, or G13 you will not need to worry about a bit of the old being left and can confidently look to not needing to change for another 5 odd years.
It is a DIY task; I did mine. It CAN be trouble free or CAN be a bit of a pig. The issue is air locks that might stop the pump circulating the fluid after a change. The pump has little "push" so if there is a significant change in height on the horizontal pipe runs it might not push the air lock bubble down so getting things flowing. Once flowing it self pruges all the smaller bubbles to break in the header.
To break an air lock the van maker will build in bleeder nipples at any high point. Commercially, a higher push pump is used temporarily to both push the old stuff out and then push all the bubbles out of harms way. DIYing is fine, but takes a bit of time and you need to beforehand know where the bleeders are hidden away and how to access them. My van has a lot, 5 or 6 I recall without digging out my notes; most UK vans have less so I hear.
Note it is G12++, not G12. G13 is better still.

Post last edited on 04/01/2016 20:29:03

Bill Terry

04/1/2016 at 8:25pm
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you can down load a manual for your system on line free.

Everything you need to know
http://www.alde.co.uk/manuals.php

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Roughing it in style at Calloose caravan and camping holiday park nr St Ives.(seasonal pitch)
Its not a hangover, its wine flu!

nant mill.N/Wales
just dont go there.

david8858

04/1/2016 at 8:57pm
Location: Teesside
Outfit: Lunar Clubman SI H

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Thanks Bill Terry I have downloaded the manual but I'm grateful to TJQU for a detailed explanation in plain English!

Many thanks guys

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Best Regards

David

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