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 Topic: ENSUITE SPACEMAKER
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28/2/2016 at 12:00am
Location: Lismore New South Wales
Outfit: 1999 Elddis Encounter 380 2
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Joined: 10/1/2014 Standard Member
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Hi to all, first post for me, so a brief intro.
Imported an Elddis Whirlwind 380/2 a couple of years ago, thru a dealer. Major damp problems emerged and I with help from this site gutted the entire front end and learnt the art of coach building (for a metal worker this was a task!)The English Australian based dealer to his honesty and credit came to the party and reinbursed my cost materials. It was a happy outcome, thanks to all who posted how to go about its.
Before our epic journey latter in the year to Tasmania, I decided to gut the ensuite plastic basin /integrated cabinets etc and see how much extra space we could make with the emphasis being on providing more room for the shower.
With little available in the way of micro vanity basins, DIY was best option. Whilst this mod is probably nothing new our total cost was minimal and this method may appeal to other owners. The vanity basin is made by an A4 sized sheet of 3mm white Acrylic. The two curves for the acrylic and plywood must be cut before bonding.Refer below.
This is then bonded and clamped as a laminate to a 3mm piece of marine ply.
Two pieces of 20 x 20 pine timber are used on the wall sides to allow the attachment to ensuite wall. Clamp and glue these in the available space after the cutout for the bowl has been made. Length will vary with the available space around the bowl perimeter.
The basin is a 180mm diameter stainless steel mixing bowl
which requires a hole approx 42mm machined for the waste outlet(check your existing outlet diameter as this is used in the mod).
Food grade 316 stainless is a very hard material and takes a little patience to machine in drill press. A circle fly cutter is used as in picture. The high speed steel cutting bit will probably require at least 4 or 5 re-sharpens to achieve an outcome in this material. I also had the bathrooms happy new owner using a water spray bottle to cool the cutting tip. Clamping the work was not necessary as the tool does not "jag" on the work and the upturned bowl is easy to secure with one hand whilst operating the drill lever with the other.
After the fly cutter has done its work a nasty burr is formed on the inside of the bowl .This is easily removed
by the use of a vertical buffing pad holder(pictured) and an 80 grit pad.
Use a jij saw to cut out the bowl insert and a rectangle at the other end to incorporate the Whale tap set.
HINT: leave room for the shower hose to slide down the wall of the ensuite, so mount the tap set a little forward towards the bowl.
The curved edge faces the entrance door to facilitate safe entry. Under the top acrylic surface the curve of the plywood is recessed approx 20mm back from the edge so the top overhangs the vertical curved shroud. (which hides all your plumbing!)Stainless wood srews attach to corner wall of ensuite.
The shroud in my case measures 430 l x 300 h. The 430 length is obtained by measuring with a flexible tape or string from the edge, around the curve of the plywood to the outside edge, as the shroud butts up underneath to the 3mm plywood edge.
The diameter of the curve in the acrylic sheet for me was 185mm. As luck would have it the fuel tank from my vintage Lister engine was 185mm !. This formed a perfect mandrel to curve the 3mm whit acrylic. Marking out the bend is achieved by placing the shroud sheet vertically on the inverted vanity top, and walking it around the curve. Marking the two locations of the curve starting points which will be 90 degrees apart. Use tape as well on your beding mandrel as well 90 degrees apart.
Suggestions for a suitable mandrel would be a chimney flue pipe, or have one rolled at a sheet metal works Alternatively, the acrylic supplier can bend it for you.
The plumbing/wiring was originally hidden by the plastic elddis integrated unit. A neat solution was a 1 meter swimming pool hose cut down to suit. The hole thru the wall was tidied by a PVC white flange mount which is a nice snug fit in the hose. The waste hose exits the pool hose about two thirds the way up. a hole saw makes a neat sut in the concertina hose. All plumbing and wiring is now enclosed. The wiring is tidied at the exit by inserting it into clear plastic hose, tucked back into the pool hose exit. This prevents the wiring fowling the shower hose. I zip tied it also to the the hot and cold spigots.
Insert the basin with a little silicon at this point, if its a little loose in the hole, a few wraps of pvc tape will take up the slack!. Connect the waste and other plumbing/ wiring.
Two countersunk stainless wood screws attach shroud to the ends of the 20 x 20 mm attach bonded timber.
Other than my lighting upgrades and a new "non cling" clear PVC shower curtain, this completes the upgrade.
Carol loves the added space and the shower screen that no longer takes a fancy to her! Regards from David.http://s1156.photobucket.com/user/deltacharliey/library/
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