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Subject Topic: Need help ... Please. Post Reply Post New Topic
27/6/2020 at 11:31am
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Hi Guys,

Hope you can help, have heard great things about this website from friends.

I have just recently entered into the world of caravanning and have just purchased a small Coachman Mirage 440 / 5 to dip my toe in as to say.
It has a couple of issues but hoping some guru out there can help this noob.

Issue 1 : WATER SYSTEM

I can get water into the system and hot water etc via the water barely and pump, although the demand switch seems temperamental and keeps click etc. The issue is when i connect up the main water supply straight into the van. No water gets through. Either the whale unit on the mains water supply is faulty or the entry unit on the camper van ... but this lets the water through via the pump. not exactly sure what's going on here. ?

Issue 2 : Fridge / freezer

This unit appears not to be working, it has electric and gas supplies.Can it work without the gas supply as i know for certain the electric is present. Do i just have a broken fridge .

Issue 3 : Gas

The small Gas Fire and control knob is loose along with the spindle, reticent to switch on as its gas, this may just be a service engineer visit.

Any thoughts , ideas , assistance would be much appreciated.

Kind Regards

Holmesy


27/6/2020 at 1:40pm
 Location: East Herts
 Outfit: 1992 Elddis Wisp 450CT + X Trail
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Hi Holmesy and welcome. To take your problems one at a time;

1. If I am understanding this right, you say that when you connect your submersible pump up it all works but the pressure switch keeps clicking. That is probably just a bit of minor adjustment needed to the pressure switch. Just turn the knob on top of it either way until it runs right without excessive clicking. Make sure you do it with a fully charged battery though as low voltage can cause to to click. Not quite sure what you mean about connecting mains water directly to the van?

2. Assuming the fridge is a normal 3 way caravan fridge, which is what it sounds like, they are designed to run off either mains electricity, gas, or 12 volts from the car when travelling. They will not run off the caravan battery as they would draw too much power. They do not need both gas and electricity at he same time normally.

3. I would have the gas fire checked by a qualified gas fitter.

Hope that helps.


-------------
Best Regards,
Colin


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via mobile 27/6/2020 at 10:35pm
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Thanks mate.....I thought that would be the issue with the clicking. I have an outside tap and when I connect the hose to to the same inlet, no water comes through. Inlet works okay with pump, main supply connected no water ?

Looks like I have a dicky fridge then as I checked I had power at the switches on the fridge.

Gas fitter it is to check the fire unless I rip it and go electric.

Any recommendations for electric job tops and fridges.



27/6/2020 at 10:43pm
 Location: Aberdeen
 Outfit: Coachman Pastiche 460 VW Tiguan Moti
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Re the fridge, is your caravan parked level ? If you search this forum you will find people have problems if their caravan is on a slope.

-------------
Robert (BoB)


27/6/2020 at 10:52pm
 Location: Liverpool
 Outfit: Swift Challenger 560
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Hi there, welcome to the site and to the world of caravanning.

For anything related to gas I would always get a qualified gas engineer to look at it. It’s just not worth taking a risk with gas.

It might be worth getting the whole van serviced by a mobile service engineer or a service centre just to get it all checked out. The fridge and water may be simple issues to fix so a service might sort them before you shell out for replacements, as caravan fridges are ridiculously expensive.

I hope you get sorted out and get to enjoy your new caravan.

-------------
Pixie


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27/6/2020 at 10:56pm
 Location: Royal Forest of Dean
 Outfit:  Swift Major 4SB
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The water system only works when you have the aquaroll connected with the pump.

When you say the fridge doesn't work what do you mean exactly? If you put a bowl of water in the freezer compartment, switch the fridge to 240v and turn it to the coldest setting the water should get colder over a few hours. It will not cool instantly, you have to give it time especially when the outside temperature is unusually high like it has been this week.

If you don't have the manuals for the caravan get a copy of The Caravan Handbook by John Wickersham which will explain how everything works. You can also download manuals from the individual manufacturers of the various appliances that will help with operating and troubleshooting.

Rob


28/6/2020 at 10:53am
 Location:  Wales
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If you couple up to mains water you need an inline pressure reducing valve at it is extremely likely to blow the caravan pipework apart

-------------
73 going on 25
Beauty is in the eye of the beerholder



28/6/2020 at 10:53am
 Location: Liverpool
 Outfit: Swift Challenger 560
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Another thing to consider is that caravan fridges are completely silent unlike domestic fridges which hum as soon as they are turned on. It may not seem like it is working but if you put it on the mains electric setting and wait several hours, it might surprise you.

Caravan fridges do not run from the caravan battery, the battery option on the fridge is just for when you are towing so if you have it set to that setting, it will not work. Make sure it is on the mains electric setting.

-------------
Pixie


via mobile 28/6/2020 at 4:43pm
 Location: Long Eaton Nottingham
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To connect to mains water I think you would still need to put it in to the barrel with the pump submerged but you will need to buy something that will shut it off. We have never done thar but our friends have It let's it half fill then automatically fill up to the level when it goes below.

-------------
* * Sue * *


28/6/2020 at 5:30pm
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Hi Guys,

Thanks for all the comments to date, you lot are great.

Update for you all on my progress :

WATER SYSTEM :

Water Pump System still works, still to fine tune the microswitch settings.

This is a link on amazon to the mains water connector i have, mines is older, could be faulty, but this is what it looks like :

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Whale-Aquasource-Caravan-Mains-Connection/dp/B01DCA0CI4/ref=sr_1_1?adgrpid=57194062710&dchild=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlKmbsvWk6gIVze3tCh1NCA5qEAAYASAAEgJVfvD_BwE&hvadid=259047934964&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=1007349&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=b&hvrand=1532654490784292367&hvtargid=kwd-314760937140&hydadcr=7290_1812400&keywords=whale+mains+water+hook+up&qid=1593361303&quartzVehicle=121-1650&replacementKeywords=whale+mains+water+hook&sr=8-1&tag=googhydr-21

still no pass through of mains water. still thinking about this.
I understand the work round may be a float scenario in the barrel with the pump and the mains connection in play.

FRIDGE :

Its working on the electricity after all, just hadn't given it enough time to cool, seems okay.
No gas switched on to it.


GAS :

Not done much with this.

I am however thinking of removing the gas and going full electric.
Fridge doesn't need it, get rid of gas hob and replace with some electric hobs, water system doesn't need it although there is a gas connection to the water heater ... thoughts.

Couple of small fan heaters does the job of heating and cooling, so could be sorted. Little bit of cosmetic after it and we are water and electric only.

Thoughts before i do something stupid and break it forever.

Holmes




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28/6/2020 at 6:11pm
 Location: East Herts
 Outfit: 1992 Elddis Wisp 450CT + X Trail
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Electricity consumption with electric hobs, oven etc would trip the electric on many sites, if not all of them, especially if fan heaters come into play at all. Your domestic supply is normally around 60 amps, but on sites you have 16 amps maximum, sometimes 10 amps, and could be even as low as 6 amps. If you work out the wattage of the various appliances, a 2kw fan heater alone will take nearly 9 amps. If you happen to be on a 10 amp supply, just your fan heater would probably trip the supply on start up, and even on a 16 amp supply, you would only need to put on a hob ring with the fan heater and it would trip. It's tempting to try and get rid of gas, but not really practical.

I would stick with electricity for the fridge and your battery charger and little else. That's what we do. If it's cold at night when we go away we take a small convector heater to leave on overnight, but only on the 1kw setting. We don't tend to go away if it's likely to be cold in the day time, so we rarely use our gas heater. We do heat the water with gas, and we do all our cooking with gas.

-------------
Best Regards,
Colin


via mobile 29/6/2020 at 10:33am
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Re the water issue I had a problem with the water in my abbey not long after I got it, got a caravan engineer to look at it and it was a simple o ring on the whale pump that had perished. Not saying that’s the case here but 50p will get you a new one and one less thing to worry about

-------------
Who needs travel agents,we have our static


29/6/2020 at 12:30pm
 Location: London
 Outfit: Lunar Cosmos 524
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Think Colin21 has pretty much nailed it. Going all electric you would push even a 16A supply to close to tripping out, a 6A supply would be an absolute non starter if you wanted cooking, water heating and heating.

Electric cookers, water heaters and heaters are high power appliances, even a domestic induction hob alone without an oven (which is about the lowest powered electric hob) is rated at around 3kW (12.5A), an oven would be ANOTHER 3kW (12.5A)! The dedicated on board electric caravan water heaters/heaters are typically rated at 1.8kW (7.5A). Even a low powered 900w rated microwave oven consumes around 1.2kW (5A). Fan heaters are typically 1-2kW (4.5-9A) rated.

The numbers just don't add up into a very workable/comfortable outfit. You may scrape by if you only used one appliance at a time, but you would have to be incredibly disciplined and totally aware of what was switched on. Not many EHU overload breakers are user resettable, so if you did trip it out, you'd have to get site warden to reset it, do it more than once and you won't be nominated for any camper of the year awards!

There is a good reason that NO touring caravans are built all electric, and high powered appliances (cooker, some heating etc.) are always gas powered.

Think you need to bite the bullet and get the gas professionally checked/sorted. At the end of the day probably cheaper than trying to do away with it and substitute electric appliances!

Your water supply problem sounds very much with the Whale pressure regulator unit. I'm not overly familiar with the specific unit, but it may have seized internally or suffered from being frozen. It's a sealed unit so not user repairable if faulty. There is a specific way of fitting to water inlet, which may influence whether it works or not, see instructions: https://www.whalepumps.com/rv/siteFiles/resources/docs/resource-library/753.85_v7_........

Good luck.



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