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28/6/2020 at 5:30pm
Location: Outfit: None Entered
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Joined: 27/6/2020 Standard Member
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Hi Guys,
Thanks for all the comments to date, you lot are great.
Update for you all on my progress :
WATER SYSTEM :
Water Pump System still works, still to fine tune the microswitch settings.
This is a link on amazon to the mains water connector i have, mines is older, could be faulty, but this is what it looks like :
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Whale-Aquasource-Caravan-Mains-Connection/dp/B01DCA0CI4/ref=sr_1_1?adgrpid=57194062710&dchild=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlKmbsvWk6gIVze3tCh1NCA5qEAAYASAAEgJVfvD_BwE&hvadid=259047934964&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=1007349&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=b&hvrand=1532654490784292367&hvtargid=kwd-314760937140&hydadcr=7290_1812400&keywords=whale+mains+water+hook+up&qid=1593361303&quartzVehicle=121-1650&replacementKeywords=whale+mains+water+hook&sr=8-1&tag=googhydr-21
still no pass through of mains water. still thinking about this.
I understand the work round may be a float scenario in the barrel with the pump and the mains connection in play.
FRIDGE :
Its working on the electricity after all, just hadn't given it enough time to cool, seems okay.
No gas switched on to it.
GAS :
Not done much with this.
I am however thinking of removing the gas and going full electric.
Fridge doesn't need it, get rid of gas hob and replace with some electric hobs, water system doesn't need it although there is a gas connection to the water heater ... thoughts.
Couple of small fan heaters does the job of heating and cooling, so could be sorted. Little bit of cosmetic after it and we are water and electric only.
Thoughts before i do something stupid and break it forever.
Holmes
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28/6/2020 at 6:11pm
Location: East Herts Outfit: 1992 Elddis Wisp 450CT + X Trail
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Electricity consumption with electric hobs, oven etc would trip the electric on many sites, if not all of them, especially if fan heaters come into play at all. Your domestic supply is normally around 60 amps, but on sites you have 16 amps maximum, sometimes 10 amps, and could be even as low as 6 amps. If you work out the wattage of the various appliances, a 2kw fan heater alone will take nearly 9 amps. If you happen to be on a 10 amp supply, just your fan heater would probably trip the supply on start up, and even on a 16 amp supply, you would only need to put on a hob ring with the fan heater and it would trip. It's tempting to try and get rid of gas, but not really practical.
I would stick with electricity for the fridge and your battery charger and little else. That's what we do. If it's cold at night when we go away we take a small convector heater to leave on overnight, but only on the 1kw setting. We don't tend to go away if it's likely to be cold in the day time, so we rarely use our gas heater. We do heat the water with gas, and we do all our cooking with gas.
------------- Best Regards,
Colin
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29/6/2020 at 12:30pm
Location: London Outfit: Lunar Cosmos 524
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Think Colin21 has pretty much nailed it. Going all electric you would push even a 16A supply to close to tripping out, a 6A supply would be an absolute non starter if you wanted cooking, water heating and heating.
Electric cookers, water heaters and heaters are high power appliances, even a domestic induction hob alone without an oven (which is about the lowest powered electric hob) is rated at around 3kW (12.5A), an oven would be ANOTHER 3kW (12.5A)! The dedicated on board electric caravan water heaters/heaters are typically rated at 1.8kW (7.5A). Even a low powered 900w rated microwave oven consumes around 1.2kW (5A). Fan heaters are typically 1-2kW (4.5-9A) rated.
The numbers just don't add up into a very workable/comfortable outfit. You may scrape by if you only used one appliance at a time, but you would have to be incredibly disciplined and totally aware of what was switched on. Not many EHU overload breakers are user resettable, so if you did trip it out, you'd have to get site warden to reset it, do it more than once and you won't be nominated for any camper of the year awards!
There is a good reason that NO touring caravans are built all electric, and high powered appliances (cooker, some heating etc.) are always gas powered.
Think you need to bite the bullet and get the gas professionally checked/sorted. At the end of the day probably cheaper than trying to do away with it and substitute electric appliances!
Your water supply problem sounds very much with the Whale pressure regulator unit. I'm not overly familiar with the specific unit, but it may have seized internally or suffered from being frozen. It's a sealed unit so not user repairable if faulty. There is a specific way of fitting to water inlet, which may influence whether it works or not, see instructions: https://www.whalepumps.com/rv/siteFiles/resources/docs/resource-library/753.85_v7_........
Good luck.
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