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 Topic: Jockey wheel mover help
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08/10/2021 at 11:19am
Location: Lichfield
Outfit: Coachman Amara 450
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Have you spoken to Powrtouch at all?
I cannot see why a motor mover would be dangerous but their customer services are extremely helpful and most probably explain in detail the reason why a motor mover cannot be fitted to a Fleurette Tamaris 42 pop top. Their contact number is 01283-587900.
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08/10/2021 at 11:22am
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The OP has another thread on the subject here in which he says he has been in touch with MM fitting companies, so I assume the Powrtouch angle has been covered.
-------------
XVI yes?
As well is two words!
How does a sage know everything about everything? or does he? or does he just think he does?
Remember, if you buy something you bought it, not brought it.
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08/10/2021 at 1:25pm
Location: Manchester
Outfit: Swift Challenger 524
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looking at images on the web i can understand why MM fitter said no as grounbd clearance does look low.
A jockey wheel mover may struggle trying to reverse(push) a caravan up a slope, depends on what degree of slope. Always best to pull fro ma single pivot point.
Only option i see is to purchase a mover (ebay) etc, and have a local caravan independant fitter/service guy fit it and see how you go.
Winching is not alway the best either as weakest link is rope/chain/steelrope used.
Can you consider storing the van somewhere local??
Sorry fan by much more help.
chris w
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08/10/2021 at 1:43pm
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This may be a silly question, but why can't you park it on the drive with your tow vehicle?
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11/10/2021 at 7:19pm
Location: Hampshire
Outfit: Hymer Nova S
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The advice I would offer on the Mr Shifta hitch mover we used successfully for many years, is judge it as contributing about as much, as a good adult could help you. These things are limited not by their power but by the "traction" they can achieve. This is dictated by the weight on their tyres and how slippery the surfaces are.
On wet surfaces they can't grip as well as dry, and the weight on their wheels is so limited, nose weight plus their weight is never going to be much. Take great care coming down hill, the limited traction affects braking just the same; then you are in front, a prime position to be rolled over!
Re movers: these typically are designed to clamp onto the folded "return" flange of the Al-KO chassis, so the chassis used has to be of that type and that could be where yours is unsuitable??
Al-Ko however marketed their own mover the Mammut and this mounted totally differently by bolting directly onto the body of the chassis rails, not a return flange clamp. If your van was made on an Alko chassis made after 2010 it will have the special preparation holes already punched for mounting the Mammut. The big hiccup is kit like this is not cheap.
see: https://www.practicalcaravan.com/advice/step-by-step-fitting-an-al-ko-mammut-caravan-mover
It might be worth speaking with Al-Ko UK if you chassis meets that post 2010 date and has the "M" notation stamped into.
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11/10/2021 at 7:53pm
Location: Hampshire
Outfit: Hymer Nova S
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Quote: Originally posted by JCele52 on 11/10/2021
Hi, unfortunately it's a 1998 van so no luck with the mammut.Powrtouch suggested a Camper Trolley. They will tackle a 10% incline at a cost of £1150. Need to try and accurately measure the incline of our road. It's a lot of money for something that may not work.
That again will be predominantly limited by the frictional traction the weight on the tracks achieve, unless the drive has grooves that add much to the keying.
I would most definitely demand a demonstration on a wetted drive, as a pre purchase requirement.
The 10% climbing claim must of course be referenced to a particular van weight and the type and condition of the surface, to be at all meaningful; take it with a huge pinch of salt.
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12/10/2021 at 8:51am
Location: Worcestershire
Outfit: Buccaneer Cruiser
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Quote: Originally posted by JCele52 on 11/10/2021
Hi, unfortunately it's a 1998 van so no luck with the mammut.Powrtouch suggested a Camper Trolley. They will tackle a 10% incline at a cost of £1150. Need to try and accurately measure the incline of our road. It's a lot of money for something that may not work.
Get a sales rep to demonstrate it to you. If it does not work then they take it back. Before purchase put everything in writing tot eh supplier and ask them whether it would work. If they say yes hopefully in writing and it does not you may have a comeback.
However also remember that if buying it over the phone or internet you are covered by UK legislation and can return the article if undamaged as unfit for purpose. Use a credit card to make the payment.
Having said all the above I still doubt very much if any jockey wheel mover is going to work as most are only good for flat firm dry surfaces and a very slight incline. Your best bet is a storage location nearby.
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12/10/2021 at 10:48am
Location: Hampshire
Outfit: Hymer Nova S
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Being a 1998 van, you might be in luck in that a freak of the van's auto reverse mechanism can be used to help move them in the backwards direction.
I must stress this technique has to be used with real care, but can be a powerful tool for moving vans backwards uphill and onto ramps etc.
Hopefully the handbrake is a ratchet type as opposed to a gas strut assisted one?
If so with it partly applied so the van can't roll forwards, by moving the hitch sideways the van will "walk" backwards with very much less effort than if used directly pushing it backwards, even without the brake on at all.
Whilst seeming "magic" the underlying reason is very simple. These brakes unless fully set on only brake wheels from rotating in a forward moving direction.
As you swing the hitch sideways, one wheel would want to move forward and the other backwards, but with the handbrake not fully set on the one that wants to reverse can but the one that wants to move forwards can't; thus the whole van moves backwards a little on each swing.
The fact you are only moving one wheel at a time, plus the leverage involved makes the "work" of moving considerably easier. Add to this the sideways movement cycling can be "built up", again that progressive light duty eases the progress.
It is all a bit like running from side to side with wedges as the thing moves but done in an automatic and continuous way.
Lets return to keeping safe; try this progressively to find how much the brake needs to be applied to really ensure it can't roll forward, and always keep alert and positioned that you can slap on the handbrake if needed. If you have two helpers get them to "follow" the wheels with some good-sized blocks, till confidence builds.
I had an 1100 kg caravan that I moved singlehandedly backwards uphill on my 1:14 slope for some years, using this technique, prior to treating myself to a Mr Shifta hitch tractor.
Coming off the drive forwards I did using the handbrake to control it progress.
If the van has a gas strut assisted, ratchet-less handbrake, basically forget it.
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via mobile 08/10/2021 at 6:42am
