Anybody had problems with the Truma mover draining the battery. I have heard about an isolation switch but dont know where it is. The battery has drained twice.
When have you noticed that the battery is drained. Is it when you go to use the mover after the van has been in storage or not connected to the mains for a while. If so it could be a lack of an isolation switch which allows the battery to drain. If you have never had to use the isolation switch you don't have one. If on the other hand you get home from a long journey and there is no power in the battery you likely have a fault in thecharging system from your car. My final option is that the battery is dead and needs replacing!
The mover switches itself off anyway so I would suspect that you have faulty battery/charging system
I have been using movers on 3 caravans for 6 years with no mover isolating switch although I do have 12V isolating switches in +ve and -ve should they be needed
I have a Truma mover with no isolator switch and its never drained my battery and I leave my battery in the van right from Easter through to the end of September. With mine, you can hear the system switch on and off on its own after short period of non-usage irrespective of what I do with the remote control.
As David Klyne says, suggest you look a bit further afield for the fault. BTW have you checked the state of your battery? What rating is it and how old is it? Most recommend a minimum rating of 85 amps when employing a motor mover, but I would go for a 110 amp just to be sure. Movers are a hell of a drain, so if your power pack ain't up to scratch, your mover could easily drain it to a point where it won't recover.
My master switch is just below the socket for my mains hook up and you couldn't possibly miss it, so I pressume that yours isn't there.
I had a similar problem with mine once and it turned out to be me not turning the caravans 12v master switch off after a trip out which in turn allowed the Status ariels amplifier to drain the battery over time to the point where there was not enough juice for the mover which switched itself off as it's supposed to do.
Surely the control system will have a continuous current drain to operate its radio receiver and that will flatten the battery in time. I have never measured the quiescent current but as its there for many hours even a very small draw will wreck the battery over time. Should definitely be isolated for that reason if no other.
When you talk of isolator switches I presume you are talking of an isolator switch specific to the motor mover?
I have a 12v isolator switch which shuts down all 12v systems within the 'van but this does not include the motor over.
I don't have the benefit of keeping the battery on charge while the 'van is stored with the battery on board but I am always able to go to the van and move it on the mover despite this.
From what I've read in this thread, I still think that the problem either lies with Billy75's battery or the charger.
We had a truma fitted when we brought our van in July and we don't have an isolation switch either the same as Vic ours automatically switches off if not used for so many seconds and we have never had any problems.
Is your van alarmed and do you leave the fan on the electric heater on? The latter will drain the battery to the point that the alarm tells you the battery is low, which happened to me last winter, although it took until Xmas to drain to this low level.
We had a Truma Mover which we have now upgraded to a Rhyno. The Truma had no isolator ( althought the Rhyno does) but never gave us any battery problems.
We have a Carver from 1998, ours has a special switch with a special key you insert to be able to operate it, I suppose you could call this an isolation switch.
Our switch and connection for the controller is all conveniently situated in the front locker. ours is not remote but hard wired.
We never thought to ask where everything would be, our dealer just seems to have put it all in the most sensible place!!